Friday, February 20, 2015

Rachel Zoe Swings to the '60s for Fall Inspiration

Rachel Zoe Swings to the '60s for Fall Inspiration:

Rachel Zoe styles a look from her fall 2015 collection. Photo: Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images
Rachel Zoe styles a look from her fall 2015 collection. Photo: Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images
In a season during which '70s inspiration has ruled, it's surprising that Rachel Zoe — known for her love of the decade — went in a different direction. For fall 2015, Zoe went even further back to the swinging sixties.

"It's very mod, but not in such a literal way, not in a costume-y way," Zoe said at her presentation on Tuesday. "It's in a rich, modern way, thinking about what the girls and the women I know want to wear today."

The result was a collection in mostly black and white, with color-blocking themes and patent leather Mary Janes that didn't feel too nostalgic thanks to sleek shapes and sexy detailing. Of course, the fall collection wasn't the only thing on Zoe's radar: Between editing The Zoe Report and launching a maternity line, she's had no shortage of things to do.

"I just like to really compartmentalize and do styling, do designing, and I'm working on something else I can't speak about yet," Zoe said. "I'm just trying to do a lot of things that I love."



A look from Rachel Zoe's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Rachel Zoe
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A look from Rachel Zoe's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Rachel Zoe



A look from Rachel Zoe's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Rachel Zoe
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A look from Rachel Zoe's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Rachel Zoe



A look from Rachel Zoe's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Rachel Zoe
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A look from Rachel Zoe's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Rachel Zoe



A look from Rachel Zoe's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Rachel Zoe
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A look from Rachel Zoe's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Rachel Zoe



A look from Rachel Zoe's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Rachel Zoe
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A look from Rachel Zoe's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Rachel Zoe



A look from Rachel Zoe's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Rachel Zoe
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A look from Rachel Zoe's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Rachel Zoe



A look from Rachel Zoe's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Rachel Zoe
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A look from Rachel Zoe's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Rachel Zoe

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 3:11 PM
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Michael Kors Takes a Trip to the English Countryside for Fall 2015

Michael Kors Takes a Trip to the English Countryside for Fall 2015:

A look from Michael Kors's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
A look from Michael Kors's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
Fur is everywhere again this season and, love it or hate it, there are few designers it complements as well as Michael Kors. The designer opened his fall 2015 collection show Wednesday morning with a large, full-fur coat in striped fox, worn over a grey mohair dress that fell straight to the calf. The material -- generally mink or fox, left natural or dyed scarlet or peacock blue -- continued to pop up on collars, cuffs, muffs and stoles, styled elegantly with luxurious sweaters, knit trumpet skirts, and tweed coats and blazers. Most spectacular was a coat of floral-shaped brown mink; it looked made for Anna Wintour, who sat across from Silas Chou, the Hong Kong billionaire who took Michael Kors (and before him, Tommy Hilfiger) public. The clothes were alternatively sharply tailored or relaxed -- there were two pajama-style pantsuits -- and in both forms they looked elegant, professional, expensive.

Beyond his design talents, Kors is a savvy marketer, and the designer was careful to include both Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid in his model lineup. Kate Hudson and Allison Williams sat front row; images were dispatched for the first time via Snapchat. After all, what's the point of good clothes if nobody sees them?



A look from Michael Kors's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
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A look from Michael Kors's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree



A look from Michael Kors's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
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A look from Michael Kors's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree



Michael Kors takes a bow after his fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
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Michael Kors takes a bow after his fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree



A look from Michael Kors's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
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A look from Michael Kors's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree



A look from Michael Kors's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
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A look from Michael Kors's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree



A look from Michael Kors's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
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A look from Michael Kors's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree



A look from Michael Kors's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
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A look from Michael Kors's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 3:09 PM
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Why a Buyer Goes to Fashion Week

Why a Buyer Goes to Fashion Week:

Elyse Walker. Photo: Alberto E. Rodriguez/Getty Images
Elyse Walker. Photo: Alberto E. Rodriguez/Getty Images
Thousands of people attend fashion week every season, but why do they go? Does their job require them to be there? What are they looking for? We seek to answer these questions in a series of short profiles leading into New York Fashion Week. Next up: Elyse Walker, Fashion Director at Forward by Elyse Walker.

Why is it important for you to go to fashion week?

It helps set the tone for next season and it helps me and my buyers plan what we are going to buy for fwrd.com as well as my store in the Pacific Palisades. I find it easier to spot trends during fashion week, so in between shows and appointments we try and work out which ones we feel strongly about and anticipate which ones our customers will love. Fashion week is a great opportunity to catch up with everyone -- designers, editors and even customers. I always leave each city feeling inspired -- not just from a creative point of view but also a business perspective, too.

How do you decide what shows to go to?

I’d like to go to everything but so often it comes down to logistics -- there’s only so much you can see and do in one day. We prefer to attend shows in the mornings and evenings so that we can spend longer on buying appointments during the day. The buying appointments are a must. The shows are a designer’s vision in full effect and the buying appointments are a more commercial interpretation of that vision. Seeing the show and then attending a buying appointment makes me appreciate the value of both the runway look and the commercial piece. And of course at the buying appointment you have the opportunity to touch and feel and even try on the product, which allows you to get into the mindset of your customer. You start thinking about how she’ll style a piece and where she’ll go in it. Buying appointments can take hours and sometimes even days -- but they really help you to determine what you are going to place an order for.

Do you make orders during fashion week or does that happen later?

We place orders immediately after fashion week. We prefer to see everything and then make a decision about what to buy. There are so many things you have to take into consideration -- not least your budget -- and it’s much better to make those kind of decisions once you’re away from the frenzy of fashion week.

How do you keep track of everything you see and want to have in the store and online?

It’s not easy but technology helps! I create folders on my desktop for each city and then within those I create sub-folders for casual or evening wear or bags, shoes and accessories. I then fill them with all the photos I have taken. They serve as my own inspiration boards and allow me to figure out what direction we are going in for the season. And now vendor’s purchase orders feature photos which makes things so much easier too. Before all you had was a description or a sketch to work with.

Do you travel with a buying team or is it just you?

I travel with a team that includes our online buyers as well as in-store buyers, plus an analyst. Whenever I make dinner reservations during fashion week I always book a table for 10! We spend our days attending shows and buying appointments and then once we’ve eaten our evenings are taken up working out potential orders.

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 3:08 PM
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Manicurists Take Metallic Nails in Unexpected Directions at NYFW

Manicurists Take Metallic Nails in Unexpected Directions at NYFW:

Surprise! Blue metallics are trending. Photo: Essie
Surprise! Blue metallics are trending. Photo: Essie
 As expected, we've been seeing a lot of nude nails backstage at NYFW for the fall 2015 shows, as well as the usual smattering of nail art. But the other mini-trend that's emerged? Metallic, slightly disrupted.

Nails at Honor and Creatures of the Wind. Photos: Imaxtree & Cheryl Wischhover/Fashionista
Nails at Honor and Creatures of the Wind. Photos: Imaxtree & Cheryl Wischhover/Fashionista
According to Nonie Creme, the former founding creative director of Butter London (who's just launched a new nail polish line of her own), it's all about an "industrial, steel, cold" look, often dirtied up. Instead of a pristine, shiny Tiffany platinum wedding band, think a steel pipe in your basement. "Nothing bronzy, nothing with too much warmth, but cold, hard, tough metallics," Creme says. She used "Party Girl" from her new Colour Prevails line at the Honor show.

At Creatures of the Wind, Butter London's Katie Jane Hughes continued the cold metal theme. She used Butter's "Diamond Geezer," then muddied it up with a matte top coat. While it seems counterintuitive to put matte on top of a metallic, it actually works. The metallic qualities still come through, but more muted. Hughes says, "It creates a texture. [Metallics] get more velvety."

Matte blue metallics at Marissa Webb and Charlotte Ronson. Photos: misspopnails Instagram
Matte blue metallics at Marissa Webb and Charlotte Ronson. Photos: misspopnails Instagram
At four other shows, the metallic trend took a completely unexpected direction: blue, although the matte top coat trend continued, almost singlehandedly thanks to manicurist Miss Pop. At Charlotte Ronson, she used OPI's "Ink" on the whole nail, then a matte top coat just on the upper half, for a cool look that I definitely plan to try out this weekend. At Marissa Webb, she useded OPI's navy metallic "Light My Sapphire," covered it with a matte top coat, and left a small negative space strip for good measure.

Shiny blue at Karen Walker and Costello Tagliapietra. Photos: Jin Soon & Essie
Shiny blue at Karen Walker and Costello Tagliapietra. Photos: Jin Soon & Essie
Then there were the shows where the blue metallic shade was literally allowed to shine. At Costello Tagliapietra, Julie Kandalec used Essie's "Aruba Blue" with a glossy top coat. At Karen Walker, whose collection theme was "Sapphire and Steel," Jin Soon Choi used "Heirloom" from her own line, a blue metallic that skews turquoise.

Inspired to try these space age looks now? I highly recommend Essie's "No Place Like Chrome," aka the color that gets the distinction of being the only nail polish bottle I've ever finished completely.

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 3:05 PM
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Marc Jacobs Turns the Volume Back Up for Fall 2015

Marc Jacobs Turns the Volume Back Up for Fall 2015:

Nightmares. Photo: Imaxtree
Nightmares. Photo: Imaxtree
Marc Jacobs got his mojo back. After a couple of quieter collections — fall 2014’s minimalist, monochromatic refresh and spring 2015’s utilitarian-melancholia, the beloved designer got really loud for fall 2015. And we’re not just talking about the truly scary, stress-inducing music, which was quite blaring and was a perfect choice for the vibe Jacobs was trying to get across.

Obviously only Jacobs knows what was going on in his head — well, him and whomever he told (probably Sofia Coppola) and reporters with access to him. But the feeling I got was like maybe a bunch of really tall people got locked into a fancy party at a mansion around the turn of the century, put their hair in top knots because they were over it, eventually starved to death, then came back to life on Thursday and walked up and down a runway before they went off to murder everyone. Currently, they might be soaring through New York’s heavy winds on broomsticks. Things that contributed to this feeling: The exaggerated topknots, which made the models’ necks look freakishly long; the casting, which leaned away from traditionally pretty, all-American girls and towards the more severe (Kendall Jenner was interestingly the only celebrity model used); the music and the set, which looked like a derelict mansion — or Diane Vreeland’s apartment, according to Vanessa Friedman. Indeed, the iconic former Vogue editor was one of Jacobs’ points of inspiration for the collection.

Though Vreeland died shortly after Jacobs launched his business, he wrote the forward of her book “Allure,” in which he mentioned “the frivolity, the grandiosity, the decadence, hedonism, arrogance of fashion” as things that “became kind of charming in Mrs. Vreeland’s hands.” It was clearly in that spirit that Jacobs designed his fall 2015 collection; all those qualities were there. Even the most subdued looks — librarian-chic plaid dresses — had strips of black sequins and most looks were paired with black gloves and patent leather black shoes that felt somehow deviant. Jacobs was heavy-handed with beading — done beautifully on everything from otherwise simple, pleated A-line skirts and dresses, to trims on coats — and embroidery. Coats with fur lapels and sparkly black embroidered panels were amongst the show’s most impactful pieces. For the most part, the color palette was dark — the long coats and skirts in blacks and navys felt very "Downton Abbey"-in-mourning, but there were a few bright spots, like a pink coat with embroidery along the trim, paired with a mustard yellow full skirt and a luxurious skunk fur stole, natch. From opulent furs to grommeted wool, there was a lot to love in the way of statement outerwear. There was also a lot of weird ‘20s-tinged eveningwear that we pray makes it to the Oscars.

On their own, the clothes were stunning and quite wearable, and the shoes truly covetable, but Jacobs seemed set on making them look deranged with extremely tall models like Molly Bair (6’1”) and Sarah Abney (5’11”) walking awkwardly in them down the runway. The latter seemed to creepily linger as she closed the show, the music getting louder, more suspenseful…a moment none of us in the audience will soon forget.

This may have been a #dark collection, but it was also brilliant, thereby giving everyone a much-needed end-of-fashion-week jolt of energy…and terror. Like, I’ll most likely have nightmares. Night guys!



A look from the Marc Jacobs fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
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A look from the Marc Jacobs fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree



A look from the Marc Jacobs fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
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A look from the Marc Jacobs fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree



Marc Jacobs takes a bow after his fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
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Marc Jacobs takes a bow after his fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree



A look from the Marc Jacobs fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
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A look from the Marc Jacobs fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree



A look from the Marc Jacobs fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
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A look from the Marc Jacobs fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree



A look from the Marc Jacobs fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
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A look from the Marc Jacobs fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree



A look from the Marc Jacobs fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
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A look from the Marc Jacobs fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 3:03 PM
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Ralph Lauren Makes a Statement Against Fur

Ralph Lauren Makes a Statement Against Fur:

A look from Ralph Lauren's fall 2015 collection show Thursday. Photo: Imaxtree
A look from Ralph Lauren's fall 2015 collection show Thursday. Photo: Imaxtree
By the end of Ralph Lauren's show on Thursday morning, I was starting to feel sick. If there's been a dominant theme on the fall 2015 runways, it's fur -- fox, mink, you name it -- and at Ralph Lauren, it looked especially animal-like, its uses especially superfluous, accompanying everything from outerwear to evening gowns.

Only it wasn't fur. At the bottom of the collection's show notes was a statement that read: "Ralph Lauren has a long-standing commitment to not use fur products in our apparel and accessories. All fur-like pieces featured in the collection are constructed of shearling."

Commendable, right? Not to mention impressive from a design perspective (we were all fooled!). Except that shearling, like fur, is made from the tanned hide and wool of a sheep (it helps to think of it as "sheep fur"), and sheep are slaughtered shortly after they are shorn.

I asked Ralph Lauren for further clarification. A spokesperson said the decision not to use fur was driven by a "humane concern" that has been in compliance with PETA guidelines since 2006. (A PETA spokesperson did not immediately respond to for a request for comment, but PETA's website frequently praises Ralph Lauren for its decision not to use fur.) The Ralph Lauren spokesperson added that the company only works with vendors that have been "totally certified that the skins they're using are byproduct [materials]." So, yes, that's commendable -- if not as commendable as, say, using only faux fur or skipping the look altogether.

Fur debate aside, Ralph Lauren's collection looked good this season. Lauren likes to build a collection around a place -- Russia, India, the Far East -- and as many reviewers have pointed out before, the effects can be a little costumey. But it did not seem that Lauren had a specific place in mind this season. There were certainly Western elements -- brown suede trousers and fringed bags, shearling jackets, ivory knits piled with yet more fringe -- but the hats read more safari than American West. The mix worked well; in the end, it simply looked like Ralph Lauren.



A look from Ralph Lauren's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
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A look from Ralph Lauren's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree



A look from Ralph Lauren's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
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A look from Ralph Lauren's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree



Ralph Lauren waves to the crowd after his fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
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Ralph Lauren waves to the crowd after his fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree



A look from Ralph Lauren's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
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A look from Ralph Lauren's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree



A look from Ralph Lauren's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
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A look from Ralph Lauren's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree



A look from Ralph Lauren's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
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A look from Ralph Lauren's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree



A look from Ralph Lauren's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
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A look from Ralph Lauren's fall 2015 collection. Photo: Imaxtree

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 3:02 PM
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The 7 Biggest Trends from New York Fashion Week

The 7 Biggest Trends from New York Fashion Week:

From left to right: Ralph Lauren, See by Chloe, M.Patmos, Diane von Furstenberg and Sally Lapointe
From left to right: Ralph Lauren, See by Chloe, M.Patmos, Diane von Furstenberg and Sally Lapointe
There was a common thread amongst the big trends that came out of New York Fashion Week for fall 2015, and it should come as no shock to anyone what it was: the 1970s. The cold and snow was a strong force this past week, but no match for the power of the decade over New York designers, and that is saying something because it sure was (and still is) bitter.

Facets of the trend managed to touch almost everything that came down the runway. Overexposure may beget exhaustion, but we're happy to see that many of the direct references to the decade were less kitsch and more chic.

The freezing temperatures were also a hot topic, but not only as something to complain about while waiting for shows to start. Designers were sympathetic to those braving the cold with lots of warm accessories, turtlenecks, fur, layering and general coziness. You'll notice that the trends followed these warm thoughts.

Scroll through for a breakdown of each one.

The '70s Live On

From left to right: Joie, ZImmermann, Karen Walker, J.Crew and Sea
From left to right: Joie, ZImmermann, Karen Walker, J.Crew and Sea
The '70s trend was apparent before fashion week even really started. Now, it's become ubiquitous. Talk about powerful.

Brownie Points

From left to right: Michael Kors, Altuzarra, Polo Ralph Lauren, Derek Lam and Rodarte
From left to right: Michael Kors, Altuzarra, Polo Ralph Lauren, Derek Lam and Rodarte
Brown tweed jackets threw some scholastic sophistication on looks from Altuzarra, Rodarte and Michael Kors, to name a few.

Foxy Lady

From left to right: Derek Lam 10 Crosby, Creatures of the Wind, Altuzarra, Gary Graham and Veronica Beard.
From left to right: Derek Lam 10 Crosby, Creatures of the Wind, Altuzarra, Gary Graham and Veronica Beard.
Vrai ou faux, fox was the top choice of a season full of fur. Often found draped around the neck in a stole (another incredibly popular accessory this season), fixed to a collar or in a caplet, it added luxe coziness to many a collection.

On the Fringe

From left to right: Ulla Johnson, Rebecca Minkhoff, J.Crew, BCBG Max Azria and Edun
From left to right: Ulla Johnson, Rebecca Minkhoff, J.Crew, BCBG Max Azria and Edun
Fringe appeared in dozens of collections -- ranging from Stevie Nicks-chic to something a little more modern. This trend rolled over from last season and has no signs of slowing down.

Culottes Still Cool

From left to right: Frame Denim, Victoria Beckham, Opening Ceremony, Tibi and Sachin + Babi
From left to right: Frame Denim, Victoria Beckham, Opening Ceremony, Tibi and Sachin + Babi
Another '70s staple, culottes experienced a resurgence this week. It's not too surprising considering gaucho pants got their groove back not too long ago, and they must have sold well enough for brands to continue making them.

To the Floor

From left to right: Creatures of the Wind, Zimmermann, Pas de Calais, Ryan Roche and Greg Lauren
From left to right: Creatures of the Wind, Zimmermann, Pas de Calais, Ryan Roche and Greg Lauren
Designers went to great lengths with duster coats this week; many even went full-on Mary Poppins by pairing the look with a wide-brimmed hat.

All Wrapped Up

From left to right: Babyghost, ADEAM, Victor Alfaro, Richard Chai Love and Hellessy
From left to right: Babyghost, ADEAM, Victor Alfaro, Richard Chai Love and Hellessy
Scarves reached gigantic proportions for fall 2015 in both fine and chunky knits. The look goes a long way to making us feel pretty comfy, just make sure it doesn't drag!

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 3:00 PM
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The Best Street Style From the Last Day of New York Fashion Week

The Best Street Style From the Last Day of New York Fashion Week:

W's Giovanna Battaglia. Photo: Kevin Kim/Fashionista
W's Giovanna Battaglia. Photo: Kevin Kim/Fashionista
The last day of New York fashion week featured some of the week's biggest shows -- Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs -- and the fashion crowd managed to save some of their best looks for last.  Smart layers, furry and metallic coats, stripes and polka dots, chunky leather jackets, and dashes of bright yellow and baby blue made for a strong finish to the week.

See the gallery below for our favorite street style looks from day eight of New York fashion week, and check back Monday for our roundup of the entire week's best dressed showgoers.



Lucky's Eva Chen. Photo: Imaxtree
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Lucky's Eva Chen. Photo: Imaxtree



Anya Ziourova. Photo: Imaxtree
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Anya Ziourova. Photo: Imaxtree



Manrepeller's Leandra Medine. Photo: Imaxtree
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Manrepeller's Leandra Medine. Photo: Imaxtree



Lauren Remington Platt. Photo: Kevin Kim/Fashionista
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Lauren Remington Platt. Photo: Kevin Kim/Fashionista



Annie Georgia Greenberg. Photo: Kevin Kim/Fashionista
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Annie Georgia Greenberg. Photo: Kevin Kim/Fashionista



Photo: Kevin Kim/Fashionista
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Photo: Kevin Kim/Fashionista



W's Giovanna Battaglia. Photo: Kevin Kim/Fashionista
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W's Giovanna Battaglia. Photo: Kevin Kim/Fashionista

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 2:59 PM
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