Monday, June 08, 2015

The Row Wins CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year Once Again

The Row Wins CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year Once Again:

Photo: Michael Loccisano/Getty Images
Photo: Michael Loccisano/Getty Images
Of the many fashion designers working today, it's hard to discount the influence The Row — the minimalist-leaning label known for its simplistic shapes and sumptuous fabrics — has had on its contemporaries. It was an influence the Council of the Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) voted to honor for the second time on Monday night with its biggest prize — the Womenswear Designer of the Year Award — for which Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, Proenza Schouler and Altuzarra had also been nominated. (The Row, founded in 2006, won for the first time in 2012.) Accepting the award from actress Amanda Seyfried on stage at Lincoln Center's Alice Tully Hall, designers Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen repeatedly, and sweetly, congratulated the other on their win.

Their acceptance speech marked the end of the 2015 CFDA Awards, a glittering and, ever increasingly, celebrity-studded night where, once a year, the American fashion industry recognizes its rising stars and established legends. 2015 will likely be remembered as the year Pharrell gave a 15-minute speech about the evolution of his personal style. Or the year Betsey Johnson did a cartwheel on stage. It was also a year guests and honorees — cartwheels aside — played it safe. Though the speeches were long, they were uncontroversial, and there were no see-through dresses. In fact, there were no major fashion statements of any kind, though one appreciated Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen's decision to wear flats two weeks after women were turned away from a film screening at Cannes for wearing heelless-shoes.

British comedian James Corden, the night's official host, got things off to a rollicking start, serenading the audience with a song that poked fun at the self-importance of fashion. ("To sew that unsewable dress/And the malls will be better for this.") He threw darts at the night's sponsor, Swarovski, whose name is affixed to many of the awards (eliciting many laughs); warned the Womenswear and Menswear award winners that Kanye West, sitting front row, was "going to interrupt both speeches to say that Beyoncé should have won both of them" (still more laughs); and joked that "asking me to host the CFDAs is like asking Terry Richardson to host your daughter’s birthday party" (awkward and uncertain laughter). "Without fashion we'd all be naked," he concluded, "[and] when you're standing next to me and Harvey Weinstein later you'll all be grateful."

Kelly Osbourne and Betsey Johnson. Photo: Larry Busacca/Getty Images
Kelly Osbourne and Betsey Johnson. Photo: Larry Busacca/Getty Images
In a surprise move, last year's Lifetime Achievement Award recipient, Tom Ford, took home the first prize of the evening, for Menswear Designer of the Year. He graciously acknowledged the work of his head of menswear, Peter Hawkings.

Mickey Drexler then accepted the Founder's Award from New Yorker editor David Remnick, dubbing him "the merchant prince" and putting forth, incontestably, that Drexler has "changed in some definable fashion the look of things." Drexler said he believes there are no single methods for success, but that he has always worked hard at every job he's had ("even folding towels"), never accepted the status quo, and has always questioned authority and titles.

Urging the world to recognize the creativity of Italian designers, Vogue Italia editor Franca Sozzani handed the International Award to Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, who were recognized for making Valentino modern and relevant again while honoring its heritage.

A nearly tearful Tabitha Simmons, a shoe designer, accepted the award for Accessory Designer of the Year, and the three Swarovski awards for emerging design went to Shayne Oliver of Hood by Air (for menswear), Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel (for accessories) and Rosie Assoulin (for womenswear). It was nice to see the women of Mansur Gavriel — who did not find their success through CFDA programs — acknowledged for the undeniable impact their unvarnished leather bags have had on accessory design. Assoulin said she was amazed to find herself on the podium, recounting how, just a few years before, she had tried to sneak in to the event to watch.

Floriana Gavriel and Rachel Mansur. Photo: Larry Busacca/Getty Images
Floriana Gavriel and Rachel Mansur. Photo: Larry Busacca/Getty Images
Kim Kardashian, wearing a semi-sheer Proenza Schouler dress patterned with grommets, stepped on stage to hand the Media Award to Instagram co-founder Kevin Systrom. It was otherwise uneventful. Kelly Osbourne, talking mostly about herself, then introduced Lifetime Achievement Award winner Betsey Johnson, who joyously performed a cartwheel, split (not her first of the night) and then danced on stage before thanking her family and partners. Kanye West welcomed the night's second-to-last honoree, Style Icon award winner Pharrell Williams. West began talking about the difficulty of breaking the mold of the "celebrity creative" and of the fashion industry's repeated derision of his own work, but stopped short, choosing instead to let Williams take the spotlight. Ironically, it was Williams who ended up having the longest — and, it must be said, self-indulgent — speech, talking for roughly a quarter of an hour about his notable style moments and discovery of designers like Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanbe.

It was still raining when the ceremony ended, and guests talked loudly into their cellphones, struggling to locate drivers parked blocks away. Vogue's Hamish Bowles, in a flowered suit, was fortunate enough to chase down a cab, though he had to run for it. It was fashion back in the real world.

This story was updated on Tuesday morning with links and additional quotes.

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 9:41 AM
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What It's Like to Work as a Fitness Model

What It's Like to Work as a Fitness Model:

Model Julie "Jaws" Nelson for Athleta. Photo: Athleta
Model Julie "Jaws" Nelson for Athleta. Photo: Athleta
The impact that the fitness industry has had on fashion over the past few seasons is undeniable. With a growing number of designers tapping into the activewear market, to the "sporty chic" trend that’s taken over the runways during Fashion Month, to the growing popularity of high-end "athleisure" brands and boutiques, it’s become commonplace for even the most style-savvy women to default to workout gear and sneakers on both their off and on-duty days.

The modeling industry, which has a reputation for glorifying a waif-like body type, is beginning to shift with the trend. Just take a look at the newly revamped Self magazine, which has placed super-fit high fashion models like Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Candice Swanepoel, Hilary Rhoda and Joan Smalls on recent covers. Or Victoria's Secret, which encourages its Angels and catalog girls to share photos of their frequent workouts with the hashtag #TrainLikeAnAngel. Much like in the realm of luxury fashion, these women represent an aspirational lifestyle — although they might sooner encourage consumers to sign up for a gym membership than to invest in the latest "It" bag — and while many fashion brands (and big-name models) have hopped on the fitness bandwagon lately, there's long been a sector of the modeling world that's focused solely on selling an active, healthy way of life.

Activewear brands typically look to fitness models for their e-commerce shoots and ad campaigns, and while the job description may be similar to that of a fashion model, the physical requirements are vastly different. Charlee Atkins, who's posed for clients like Nike, Target and Sports Authority, and is a full-time senior instructor at SoulCycle, initially thought she wasn't tall enough to model, but was approached by a magazine editor in one of her classes who wanted to book her for a shoot. "Fitness models can be a bit shorter — in the 5'5" to 5'7" range — but last year there was a push to find models that were taller," she says. "We typically don't have as big of boobs [as commercial models] and have more of a boxy shape, but it depends on what your fitness specialty is, like dancing, boxing or yoga."

Much like fashion models, fitness models spend much of their time at go-sees with clients, but since shoots are extremely physical, they're asked to do more than just show off their walks or try on clothing. "Each casting is different, but they all want to see you in activewear and to see how your muscles work — we basically wear no clothes," Atkins says. "Most clients want to see a squat, a lunge, pushups or burpees. The reason why fitness modeling popped off is because they needed women who could hold poses for longer."

Charlee Atkins. Photo: Target
Charlee Atkins. Photo: Target
Julie "Jaws" Nelson, a professional dancer and SoulCycle instructor whose clients include Reebok, Athleta and Under Armour, agrees that this stamina is a key difference between her job and that of a fashion model. "They might ask you to hold a plank for 40 shots while your hair is in your face — after a shoot I’m really sore," Nelson says. "You have to be able to follow through and do the workout. Some fashion models might not have the strength to do what photographers and brands need to get the shot. It's all about endurance." Fellow Wilhelmina model Jess Cadden Osbourne, a Radio City Rockette and instructor at Flex Studios in New York, tells us that she's had to do yoga for eight hours straight on a job — holding each pose for up to three minutes — and once ran on a track from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. for a Runner's World editorial.

Many fitness models are employed as trainers, dancers or teachers at a studio; in fact, according to Topher DesPres, the director of the fitness division at Wilhelmina, upwards of 60 percent of the men and women on the board also work as an instructor. However, they're also encouraged to explore new types of exercise and are given free passes to classes through their agencies. It's often at these studios where they're scouted — especially now that so many publications and brands are interested in the fitness phenomenon and buzz spreads to the right ears when it comes to top instructors. Atkins notes that while every model has his or her own area of expertise, practicing yoga or Pilates is key when it comes to prepping for physically strenuous shoots. "The photographers love angle shots, so models should do workouts regularly that lengthen the body and open up the hips so you can hold those poses," she says.

There are some other differences between a fitness and a high-fashion shoot. The fitness sector is particularly low-key when it comes to time spent in hair, makeup and, obviously, wardrobe. On-set clothing is typically limited to spandex activewear and sneakers, and the beauty look only takes minutes to create. Since models are working out for the entirety of most shoots, hair is usually put up in a braid or ponytail, and makeup is extremely minimal — just a hint of mascara and light foundation. To keep their bodies glistening for the duration of the shoot, models are sprayed with olive oil or coco butter oil as well. Because of the simple beauty and revealing wardrobe, models are basically baring it all, and unlike most fashion shoots, they don't rely on retouching to correct images after the fact. "There's not a whole lot of post-production — clients hire you because of how you look and perform and they don’t want to change that," Atkins says.

While each model we spoke with (as well as DesPres) says they've seen an uptick in opportunities for fitness models in recent seasons, they're now seeing more fashion model-types at the same castings as well — especially when a brand is still deciding whether it wants a to go in a more editorial or an athletic direction with the shoot. Despite the "trendiness" of their field right now, they all agree that fitness modeling is much more about committing to a healthy lifestyle than it is about booking jobs — something that can't be faked at a go-see. This passion for wellness is what sets them apart, as does being multi-dimensional in their skills and being able to perform for the camera.

"I think it’s important to note that the term 'fitness model' is a misnomer," DesPres says. "Our models are sought out for campaigns and editorials beyond the typical 'gym' story. They all come from an extremely diverse playing field; it could be a gym, a sports team, they might have a nutrition degree, or be a kinesiologist. New faces can come from many places; it is up to us as agents to identify their strengths and bring them to market."

Building a following and showing off technique by leading daily fitness classes has proven to be crucial to their success as well. This is the aspect that seems most similar to the current state of fashion modeling, where women like Gigi Hadid, Karlie Kloss and Kendall Jenner have ushered in a new era of supermodels with their use of social media. Unlike fitness in fashion, this is probably not a passing trend. "If you search the hashtag 'fitness model' on Instagram, there are hundreds of photos, so if you want to get noticed, there has to be a personality behind the body," Atkins says.

 Front page photo: Athleta

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 9:40 AM
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Like J.Crew, Vince Misfired on Sweaters This Spring

Like J.Crew, Vince Misfired on Sweaters This Spring:

A Vince advertisement. Photo: Vince
A Vince advertisement. Photo: Vince
The big theme in Thursday's apparel business news was a somewhat surprising one: sweaters.

Just a few hours after J.Crew reported that it had messed up its sweater selection this spring by overbuying some styles that ultimately didn't sell and under-stocking some that did, Vince announced that it, too, had misfired on that category during the same time period. Unfortunately, that's not a little thing for either brand, even during the spring: knits and sweaters are a major sales driver for J.Crew, and Vince is known primarily for its silk blouses and cashmere sweaters. Fumbling on those core products isn't good.

Vince CEO Jill Granoff says that the planning team was hearing from customers that they wanted more head-to-toe looks, bottoms, dresses, wear-to-work clothes and outerwear. So they ordered more of those items for spring, at the same time reducing the number of knits and sweaters. Those that Vince did buy fell into a higher price bracket.

You can see where this is going. Presented with fewer sweater options at higher prices, customers just didn't buy.

"This is probably to a certain extent a self-inflicted wound," Granoff said on a Thursday afternoon webcast.

Indeed. But she added that Vince will be paying closer attention to its "heritage of cashmere luxury sweaters" moving forward, as it simultaneously continues to build out its ready-to-wear and footwear ranges, and prepares for a widespread launch of its new handbag line. With that rollout, Vince has also been listening closely to its shoppers. Following the initial launch in 45 stores, customers said they liked the bags' clean, modern aesthetic but wanted more functionality and a better price point. Granoff says the team has responded to that, bringing the prices down in line with Vince's footwear and ready-to-wear offerings. Soon the bags will be in 130 doors.

Despite the challenging sweater situation, Vince's sales grew 12 percent to $59.8 million during the three months leading up to May 2.

As exercise people say: never stop working on your core.

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 9:39 AM
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Valentino Gets Trippy in Pre-Fall Campaign

Valentino Gets Trippy in Pre-Fall Campaign:

Photo: Michal Pudelka for Valentino
Photo: Michal Pudelka for Valentino
When it came to the spring 2015 ad campaigns, Valentino had the runaway hit with a dreamy series of 20 mermaid-inspired images by up-and-coming photographer Michal Pudelka. It looks like the magic that Creative Directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli made with Pudelka was the beginning of what may become a long-term partnership, as the duo chose him to capture its pre-fall collection in a similarly artistic campaign.

Shot in Bratislava (where Pudelka was born), the ads feature models Maartje Verhoef, Ine Neefs and Grace Hartzel, styled by Karl Templer. The ladies pose in the label's colorful accessories and sweet, youthful dresses against a mirrored wall, making for a visually compelling — if not a little trippy — composition.

If we have one complaint about the photos that have been released thus far, it's the lack of Derek Zoolander and Hansel, who were the clear stars of the Italian house's runway show this past season. But hey, maybe they'll be around for spring. Check out more images from the campaign in the gallery below.

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 9:39 AM
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Barbie Can Finally Wear Flats, Blake Lively Addresses Preserve Backlash

News Brief: Barbie Can Finally Wear Flats, Blake Lively Addresses Preserve Backlash:

Blake Lively. Photo: Jamie McCarthy/Getty Images
Blake Lively. Photo: Jamie McCarthy/Getty Images
These are the stories making headlines in fashion this morning.

Blake Lively addresses Preserve backlash

Black Lively opened up about Preserve's first year of business and the pressures of running an e-commerce startup — one whose launch was rushed to coincide with her August Vogue cover. Lively also revealed that she never planned on becoming an actress, but always dreamed on going to college and starting her own business. {Time}

Barbie can now wear flats

Mattel's newest line of Fashionista Barbies (no affiliation to this site) will allow the doll to plant her soles on firm ground for the first time. The revamped Barbies have ankles that can be adjusted to accommodate heels or flats, and will come in eight different skin tones, 18 eye colors, 22 hairstyles and 23 hair colors. Let's hope flats-wearing Barbie can get into Cannes next year. {Hollywood Reporter}

Trans women create their own Vanity Fair covers
Caitlyn Jenner's Vanity Fair cover sent shockwaves across the nation, rekindling an ongoing discussion about the relationship between celebrity and gender politics. As promotions line up for Jenner's forthcoming E! docu-series, "I Am Cait," trans women across the nation are posting their own Vanity Fair covers using the hashtag #MyVanityFairCover. {Buzzfeed}

Ulta is poised for exponential growth

Ulta currently owns about 3 percent of the U.S. beauty market, a number analysts expect will double in the next five years. The Sephora competitor grossed $3.24 billion in sales in 2014, a 21.4 percent increase from 2013. CEO Mary Dillon credits Ulta's loyal customer base, employee insights and innovative marketing strategies for the company's success. {WWD}

The Tony Awards gets a makeover

For the first time, every nominee and presenter at the Tony Awards will be styled by public relations firm KCD and editors from Vogue, Teen Vogue and Vanity Fair. The show, whose red carpet was formerly described as a "disaster" by Anna Wintour, has historically been one of the least-watched awards shows on television. The year's Tony Awards will air on CBS on Sunday, June 7. {Fashionista}

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 9:38 AM
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Men's Fashion Week Finds an Auto Sponsor

Men's Fashion Week Finds an Auto Sponsor:

Men. Photo: Imaxtree
Men. Photo: Imaxtree
While excitement and a certain amount of confusion surrounds the forthcoming debut of New York Fashion Week: Men's, one of the bigger details has fallen into place. Adam Roth, the CFDA's director of strategic partnerships, has confirmed that Cadillac will be sponsoring the event, taking up the mantle of Head Fashion Car in Charge after Mercedes-Benz ended its partnership with the women's shows in January.

Maybe we should have seen this coming. Cadillac hosted Public School's fall 2015 show in its offices back in February, so clearly someone over there knows what's up.

As it stands, the brands participating in NYFW: Men's include John Varvatos, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Michael Kors, Thom Browne, Theory, Tim Coppens, Nautica, Greg Lauren and Michael Bastian. The shows are slated to run from July 13 to 16, a tight little schedule that will no doubt sprawl in years to come should things go according to plan.

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 9:38 AM
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Stars Went Either Sweet or Sexy on This Week's Red Carpets

Stars Went Either Sweet or Sexy on This Week's Red Carpets:

Dakota Johnson in Gucci. Photo: BFA
Dakota Johnson in Gucci. Photo: BFA
While it's neither Fashion Month nor Awards Season, there were so many high-profile events and collection presentations this week it felt like we had gone back in time to February. From New York to London to Los Angeles, many of our favorite style stars walked the red carpet to celebrate achievements in television, fashion, film and beyond, and while the occasions were vastly different, an interesting sartorial trend emerged.

Up-and-comers like Stacy Martin and Dakota Johnson opted to keep their looks sweet and youthful, choosing pale pink mini-dresses with girly accents, like ribbon bows and shiny glass beads. Maggie Gyllenhaal went this route as well, with a lovely floral floor-length gown by Alexander McQueen. On the other end of the spectrum, there were an impressive amount of red-hot looks that brought some serious sex appeal, including Kate Hudson's plunging J. Mendel gown and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley's burnt orange Cushnie et Ochs dress with an up-to-there slit on one side.

Click through the gallery below to see the rest of this week's best dressed.

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 9:37 AM
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THE 10 BIGGEST STORIES IN FASHION THIS WEEK

THE 10 BIGGEST STORIES IN FASHION THIS WEEK:

Photo: Annie Leibovitz for 'Vanity Fair'
Photo: Annie Leibovitz for 'Vanity Fair'

NEWS

Transition: Caitlyn Jenner sent shockwaves across the nation with the release of her Vanity Fair cover shot by by Annie Leibovitz. Jenner's 8-part docu-series "I Am Cait" will premiere July 26 on E!.

Accolades: The winners of the 2015 CFDA Awards were announced Monday at a ceremony in New York City. The night's top prize, Womenswear Designer of the Year, went to The Row.

Legal trouble: Zara USA and several Zara executives have been slapped with a discriminatory lawsuit. Former employee Ian Jack Miller is seeking damages of over $40 million, claiming he experienced anti-semitism and racism. Speaking of lawsuits, the Supreme Court ruled against Abercrombie & Fitch in another case dealing with religious discrimination.

Endorsements: Did enlisting high-profile campaign stars like Justin Bieber and Kendall Jenner result in higher revenues for Calvin Klein? The answer is complicated. But bear in mind that denim is a hard business to be in right now.

Comeback: Despite his dismissal from Dior for anti-semitic comments years ago, John Galliano has managed not only to stay afloat in his new role at Maison Margiela, but the brand's sales are even increasing under his creative direction.

FURTHER READING

Makeover: The red carpet at the Tony Awards was in desperate need of a makeover. That's why American Theatre Wing chair and costume designer William Ivey Long enlisted the help of PR powerhouse KCD and editors from Vogue, Teen Vogue, and Vanity Fair. This Sunday, the award show's nominees and presenters will be looking much more high fashion.

Sponsorships: Kim Kardashian has made a name for herself as a reality star, selfie maven and, most lucratively, the queen of celebrity endorsements. We accompanied the star on a press junket in Nashville attended by hordes of die-hard fans. Here's what we discovered.

Contract: We sat down with transgender model Andreja Pejic and discussed Caitlyn Jenner, contouring and her new contact with Make Up For Ever.

Working on my Fitness: Ever wonder what it takes to make it as fitness model? We sat down with a few of them to get the scoop on what it takes to make it in this booming industry.

Get a whiff: We interviewed perfumer Byredo Gorham on the eve of the opening of his first store in the U.S. about his approach to creating fragrances.



Posted by Nelio Inacio at 9:36 AM
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Want to Land a Job at Moschino or Fashion GPS?

Want to Land a Job at Moschino or Fashion GPS?:

Front row at Gucci's resort 2016 show in New York. Photo: Neilson Barnard/Getty Images
Front row at Gucci's resort 2016 show in New York. Photo: Neilson Barnard/Getty Images
Interested in a career in fashion? Check out our careers page. We update it daily with new job and internship listings across the industry, with opportunities in every area from public relations and sales to design and editorial.

Have any experience in luxury retail? The Italian luxury designer brand Moschino is hiring sales staff for its new Soho flagship, opening in July. You don't have speak Italian, but you must speak Moschino.

Do you have at least five years' experience in accounting? Fashion public relations and production powerhouse KCD is hiring a finance director.

Interested in the intersection between technology and fashion? Fashion GPS is hiring marketing interns. Some of its clients include Gucci, Dior and Yves Saint Laurent.

Peruse our careers page today and check out other job opportunities. There just might be something for you.

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 9:36 AM
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From Startups to Mass Retailers, It's a Tough Time for Fashion

From Startups to Mass Retailers, It's a Tough Time for Fashion:

Band of Outsiders founder Scott Sternberg in 2014. The label recently cancelled all of its fall orders and closed its New York flagship. Photo: Joe Scarnici/Stringer/Getty Images
Band of Outsiders founder Scott Sternberg in 2014. The label recently cancelled all of its fall orders and closed its New York flagship. Photo: Joe Scarnici/Stringer/Getty Images
I went out to eat on Saturday night, my third visit to a restaurant that opened about six months ago. I initially booked a reservation there because I’m attracted to novelty. It’s in a popular neighborhood, but more than a few blocks away from the cliché parts, and its chef has worked at some very hip eateries. The menu, from the raw bar to the cocktails, is appealing. The proprietors have also done a good job with branding: nice logo, beautiful interiors, inventive cocktail names.

My first meal at Restaurant X was a success: The atmosphere was gently buzzing and the food was good, if not holy-shit great. On the next visit, my husband and I invited some friends along, and they seemed to like it, too. But this weekend was different. All of the things I had originally appreciated about it had begun to wear on me. While the out-of-the-way location was initially an attraction, on Saturday night it resulted in a lot of empty tables, while more mediocre restaurants closer to the action were bustling. The slick branding and pricey menu still seemed to be bringing in first-timers — especially group diners who probably had trouble booking such a big party elsewhere — but not repeat customers dedicated to filling up those seats. Those atmospheric letdowns could be ignored if the food was worthy of its price tag — dinner for two, plus drinks, is about $120. It’s good, but maybe not that good. As I surveyed the room, I couldn’t help thinking, “This place isn’t going to last, even if I’m rooting for it.”

I’ve had that feeling plenty of times while eating at restaurants, and plenty of times while looking at fashion. The posit that there are “more brands than ever” is true. In 2003, 154 designers were listed on the official New York Fashion Week calendar. In 2014, that number more than doubled to 324, thanks to an interesting mix of circumstances. There are the young-designer competitions — from the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund to the International Woolmark Prize — which promise money but also much-needed mentorship. There are more investors, from angels to private equity firms, interested in putting money into fashion. And there are more promises of a big exit, à la Michael Kors’s billion-dollar IPO.

However, what might be the most important — and overlooked — factor is that, in modern society, entrepreneurship is considered hugely admirable. It’s thought that the most ambitious people live to work, right? If you’ve devoted your life to one company, why shouldn’t that company have your name on it? It’s no longer sexy to earn well into the six figures at a corporate job. It’s sexy to pay yourself nothing and gamble that your multi-million dollar payout will come.

But the majority of restaurants fail, as do most startups. Screenplays never get made, and artwork never gets seen. Fashion, of course, is not immune to this unwritten law, and this year has proved a particularly difficult one for the industry. In just the past month, Band of Outsiders halted operations, Honor closed down its ready-to-wear business to focus on custom orders and Dior Homme designer Kris van Assche announced the shuttering of his namesake ready-to-wear brand.

Others have chosen to reorganize. Peter Som took a season off. Marc Jacobs announced that it would fold Marc by Marc Jacobs into the main collection, following the lead of Dolce & Gabbana, which did away with D&G in 2011. And there are rumors of other brands taking a similar approach.

It’s been a transformative time at the mass level, too. J.Crew, a global tastemaker for the past decade, can’t seem to get its assortment right and has therefore seen sales drop. Long-suffering Gap continues with its struggle to pick the right colors. Ann Taylor’s profits shrunk in 2014, and its sales were down, too. (Fortunately for shareholders, Ann Inc. was recently sold to a larger retail group for more than $2 billion, or $47 a share, about a 20 percent premium on the stock.)

All this bad news can feel a bit end of the world-ish, and the shakeout will undoubtedly continue. The aftermath may even cause investors to turn away from fashion, and young designers to return to the presumed security of a corporate gig.

Which, I should say, may not be a bad thing. Unless you hate clothes (and I’m sure that a few fashion journalists do), it’s impossible to cover this business and not want people to succeed. Talent and vision should be rewarded, right? But the reality is that talent gets you nowhere. Savvy only a little further. Money helps. But luck? Fate? Providence? Whatever you want to call it, being in the right place at the right time with the right people surrounding you is what leads to success.

Consider the past recipients of CFDA Awards. For every Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan and Calvin Klein, there’s a Jhane Barnes, Andrew Fezz and Gordon Henderson, gifted designers whose businesses just never took off in the same way. As difficult as it is to accept that even the labels with the greatest potential might not succeed, there’s nothing to do but move on.

Fashion people like to lament that the changes the business has undergone in the past 20 years have not been for the better. That it’s all about branding and profit margins now. That real artists aren’t given the room, or time, to grow. I’m not sure if I agree with that wholeheartedly, but let’s just say that it’s true. Then do something about it! If you’re a magazine editor, find a teensy little more room in your pages for the designers you believe in, not just the ones with advertising dollars. If you’re a department store, work more closely with young talent to ensure they can actually fulfill the orders you’re placing — and negotiate terms that won’t leave them bankrupt. And if you’re a designer, learn something about this business before jumping in head first. Even if you have all the family money in the world, 99.9 percent of the time it’s not enough to keep a fashion brand going for more than a few years.

That’s all easier to say than do, but it’s not impossible. Instead of mourning the brands we’ve lost, the industry needs to focus on what’s working and what’s not, and how it can be better next time around. After all, we simply don’t know what’s next for any of these designers. Who would have thought in 1993 that a bankrupt Michael Kors would be a billionaire? Surely not many. But it happened.

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 9:35 AM
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'Game of Thrones' Costume Designer Michele Clapton Tells Us All About the Season 5 Looks

'Game of Thrones' Costume Designer Michele Clapton Tells Us All About the Season 5 Looks:

Scenes from season five of "Game of Thrones." Photos: HBO
Scenes from season five of "Game of Thrones." Photos: HBO
There is only one more week until the "Game of Thrones" season five finale airs, which will mark a total of 50 episodes — and countless naked breasts, bloody puddles and disastrous weddings that we've sat through (and that I have lovingly chronicled via fashion recaps).

Since the beginning, Emmy-winning costume designer Michele Clapton has been in charge of dressing the characters — a challenging task, to say the least — and season five is, sadly, her last. Clapton told me the news during a Skype call from France, where she is working on a new project. "I feel like we’ve covered all bases now. It was really important to me, knowing that I was going to leave, to actually design the costumes for each [geographic] area  so it’s complete," Clapton says. "In my head anyway it’s a complete look that I left."

Let's take a closer examination of the look that Clapton developed in season five.

Daenerys the Untouchable

Photos: HBO
Photos: HBO
Every season Daenerys's appearance has changed to reflect her station in life. First it was the ethereal virgin, then the Dothraki queen, then a homage to the outfits the slaves wore in the various lands she freed. Now a new Dany has emerged. Until last season, she was still wearing a lot of blue, which Clapton says was in memory of her beloved Khal Drogo, because it's a Dothraki color. This season she wears a lot of white and dove grey. "Now she’s got this sense of power and also a sense of immortality," Clapton says. "I wanted to give this rather untouchable [quality] to her. The idea behind the white and pale grey is the sense of removal, a removal from reality."

There's a secret underneath all those gowns, too. "I still always put trousers underneath because in her psyche anything might go wrong and [she's always thinking], 'I might need to run away,'" Clapton says. "Even with the longest, most beautiful gowns, she always wears a pair of boots and trousers. I like that sense of, 'I can play this [queen] but underneath, I can run.'"

Finally, a stylistic theme has emerged in the necklines of her gowns, which are often split into a v-shape, then fastened together at the top. Same with the long, slashed sleeves. "It’s almost like it’s revealing, but at the last minute it’s not. It’s held together. She wants to be attractive and appealing, but at the same time she wants to be in control," Clapton says.

Daenerys's Armor-Like Jewelry

Photos: HBO
Photos: HBO
Speaking of Daenerys's necklines, her statement jewelry has been next-level this season. As the season progressed, Clapton wanted to make her more aggressive, and give an almost armor-like quality to her adornments. The show's in-house armorer made the dragon piece, but Clapton commissioned London jewelers Yunus & Eliza to make the wraparound silver piece seen in Sunday night's episode nine. (Look for it to be featured in a well-known fashion magazine soon.)

Arya's Transformation

Photos: HBO
Photos: HBO
Actress Maisie Williams, who plays Arya, has had to wear dirty boy-clothes for the last several seasons, but she finally got to change outfits after leaving the Hound for dead and making her way to the House of Black and White this season. Not surprisingly, Williams was thrilled. "Maisie was very, very keen to get rid of that last costume. She said, 'Please can I burn it?'" Clapton says. Though Arya is shown throwing the outfit into the river, the outfit still exists in the archives. In fact, there are several versions, created as Williams grew.

Arya's clothing choices aren't her own, though. "Unlike Sansa, who chooses to change and express herself, Arya just adopts costumes to the situation or place that she’s in," Clapton explains. "It’s not about Arya, it’s about the person she’s playing." As the a girl selling oysters, Arya wears an outfit inspired a bit by Russian costumes with fabric made to look like filigreed copper.

Black Sansa

Photos: HBO
Photos: HBO
After Sansa escaped from King's Landing, she dyed her hair black and went goth for a bit. The black Maleficent-style dress she wore last season is reprised here, albeit with some heavy cloaks thrown over it. It's made clear in the show that Sansa can sew, and Clapton says Sansa consciously made this choice to be darker, as if to prove she wasn't going to be a victim anymore. There's some symbolism in that long circular necklace, too. "The necklace was based on the idea that Arya had Needle. At the end of the necklace there’s a point, a spike, which is like Sansa’s smaller version of Needle. It’s a jewelry idea of Needle. She’s finally taking them on," Clapton explains. Well, at least until she marries Ramsay, ugh.

Sansa's Second Wedding Dress

Photo: HBO
Photo: HBO
Despite the horrific circumstances surrounding Sansa's marriage to Ramsay, this is one of my favorite dresses in the entire series, and one of Clapton's favorites as well. It is loaded with symbolism, too. "It’s Sansa trying to respect everyone that’s been before her. She finally feels like she can make Winterfell a family home again. So I wanted to incorporate pieces that represented her family." To that end, the feather collar represents the fur pieces that her brothers and father used to wear when they went into battle or off hunting. The shape of the dress was inspired by her mother and the fish clasps on the front are signifiers of the Tullys, her mother's family house. The shape was also engineered to look a bit like the statues in the crypt at Winterfell.

The dress caused a bit of an issue on set, though. "The funniest thing was on the day of the rehearsal, they had set up this snowy path. [Sophie Turner, who plays Sansa,] walked up the path in the dress and it was like a snow plow. It cleared the whole path because it was so big and heavy. They had to reset the snow every take," Clapton laughs.

Finally, the wedding dress was specially engineered for that controversial wedding night rape scene. Clapton says it was sewn with cotton thread, which is quite easy to rip, then re-sewn after each take. Clapton wasn't present when that particular scene was shot, but estimates that it probably took three or four takes to shoot.

Margaery Becomes a Queen

Photos: HBO
Photos: HBO
Margaery married King Tommen without incident this season, finally earning the title of "Queen" without her husband dying immediately. Her clothing this season has definitely been heavier and less bare than in past seasons, and this is by design. "It’s funny, I wanted her to be a bit more like Cersei, with the metal armor look," Clapton says. "Margaery doesn’t need to play the, 'Oh, I’ve hardly got anything on and I’m so young!' game. She can actually say, 'I’m queen now.'" Welp, at least until she gets stripped and tossed into a dungeon.

Assless-Dress "Daenerys"

Photo: HBO
Photo: HBO
The whorehouse scene featuring prostitute "Daenerys" was one of my favorite moments in the whole season. The dress started out as a joke. "I wanted to shock [showrunners] David [Benioff] and Dan [Weiss], because they always ask me to do outrageous things. I just thought, 'Fine, I’m going to do a costume with no ass! And they were like, 'What were you thinking, Clapton?'" the designer says. In the end, the dress made it into the show. "The whole essence of Dany is there... [there] are always circles cut in and bits missing in her dress so I thought it would be really funny. Some people said, 'Well, how would they know what she looked like?'" Clapton continues. "She’s this iconic woman so of course people talk and gossip and know what people look like! It was meant to be amusing." Mission definitely accomplished.

Myrcella in Dorne

Photos: HBO
Photos: HBO
Cersei's daughter is all grown up and wearing the sexy outfits of her sex-obsessed adopted home, Dorne. "The dresses were beautifully embroidered by my embroiderer Michele [Carragher] as usual, but I wanted it to look like one little pull of a strap and it would just drop to the ground," Clapton says. "There was nothing to them. Just clouds." Clapton also wanted to set the scene for Jaime to be slightly "horrified" when he encounters his daughter/niece in this state of almost-undress.

Trystane's outfit has a definite Indian inspiration. The fabrics actually came from India and the costume design team dyed them the vibrant colors seen here. The large leather belt and chain come from Clapton's personal collection.

Sexy Sand Snakes

Photos: HBO
Photos: HBO
Oberyn's various bastard daughters band together to take revenge on the folks in King's Landing, wearing a mix of hard and soft. Not all the critics have been kind about these outfits, according to Clapton. "They’re sexy, it’s hot weather, it’s a very liberal society. [People have said] it looks too B-movie, but it’s supposed to be this rather free place," she says. "It’s hot and it’s practical to wear light clothing. I just like the movement. Again, they wear suede trousers underneath and boots and I just liked that contrast of very light flowy dresses with really tough bits. When you need to fight you put the tough armor over." Oh, yeah, and about that armor...

Nipplegate

Photos: HBO
Photos: HBO
This armor caused a bit of a ruckus when the first pictures were revealed prior to the season premiere, prompting what was immediately dubbed "Nipplegate," because the breastplate looked a bit, uh, aroused. When you're watching the show in real time, you can't really see the nipples, but Clapton is still annoyed by the whole thing, though she was laughing while relating this story. The armor really did have nipples at first. "When I first saw it I said, 'I hate the nipples. Get rid of those fucking nipples!' My armorer went, 'Yeah, yeah, I’ll get rid of it.' And he did," she says. "I have this absolute phobia about that armor. It’s the worst thing on earth. It’s sort of funny, because I was cross about it because  it’s such a faux pas, but I don't think it registers on film as much as it does in those pictures." She still gives major props to her armorer, who shapes leather over molds and hand stamps the designs on it.

Dornish Armor (Sans Nipples)

Photos: HBO
Photos: HBO
I was really drawn to this other version of Dornish armor, too, even without any nipples. Clapton saw some padded velvet armor in Florence years ago that she loved, and it provided the inspiration for this look. "It’s built on leather and padding and velvet, and we decided each stud would be a sunburst on a leather piece, studded through," she explains. "It was a nightmare. I just decided it would be a lovely, sensual way of wearing armor. They were very solid actually. They were very protective." The team had to make more than 25 pieces.

And with that, kudos to Clapton on an amazing five seasons on this incredible show.

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 9:34 AM
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Saturday, June 06, 2015

CANDICE SWANEPOEL HD WALLPAPER QUEEN OF VICTORIA'S SECRET BIOGRAPHY

CANDICE SWANEPOEL HD WALLPAPER QUEEN OF VICTORIA'S SECRET :

Candice Swanepoel Born October 20, 1988 (age 24) Mooi River, Natal Province, South Africa Height 5 ft 9 in (1.75 m) Hair color Dark blonde Eye color Blue Measurements (US) 33-23-34.5 (EU) 84-59-88 Dress size (US) 0-2 ; (EU) 32-34 ; (UK) 4-6 Manager Ice Model Management IMG Models Why Not Model Agency Modelwerk Website Official web site : www.candiceswanepoel.com Candice Swanepoel (born 20 October 1988) is a South African model best known for her work with Victoria's Secret. In 2012, she came in 10th on the Forbes top-earning models list. Career Candice Swanepoel was spotted by a model scout in a Durban flea market at age 15. Swanepoel's resume includes covers for Australian, Greek, Spanish, Portuguese, Japanese and Italian Vogue, Brazilian, German and South African ELLE, British, South African, Romanian, Mexican and Chinese GQ, Turkish, Spanish, Russian, Czech and Argentinian Harper's Bazaar, i-D, Lush and Ocean Drive (U.S.) and advertisements for Nike, Diesel, Guess?, Tommy Hilfiger, Tom Ford, Prabal Gurung, Swarovski, Colcci, True Religion, Ralph Lauren, Miu Miu, Juicy Couture and Versace. Swanepoel has walked the runway for Tommy Hilfiger, Dolce and Gabbana, Michael Kors, Donna Karan, Giambattista Valli, Jason Wu, Prabal Gurung, Rag & Bone, Oscar de la Renta, Fendi, Chanel, Elie Saab, Diane von Fürstenberg, Sportmax, Betsey Johnson, Stella McCartney, Viktor and Rolf, Givenchy, Jean Paul Gaultier, Christian Dior, Blumarine and numerous other designers, as well as for Victoria's Secret since 2007. In addition to appearing in the lingerie brand's commercials, she was a featured model in the 2010 "SWIM" catalog, along with Lindsay Ellingson, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Behati Prinsloo and Erin Heatherton.In 2010, Swanepoel became a Victoria's Secret Angel. Swanepoel modeled for the Kardashians' 2010 swimwear line. On 12 August 2010 Swanepoel officially opened the first Victoria's Secret retail store in Canada, at West Edmonton Mall, Edmonton. In 2013, Swanepoel was named the cover model of the coveted Victoria's Secret Swim Catalogue. Popularity Swanepoel was voted #61 in 2010 and #62 in 2011 in FHM's annual "100 Sexiest Women in the World" poll and #31 in 2012 Maxim's "Hot 100 List". Wealth Swanepoel made her debut at No. 10 on Forbes' The World's Top-Earning Models list, with estimated earnings of $3 million between 2010 and 2011. Personal life Swanepoel was born and raised in a small town called Mooi River in Natal Province, South Africa. She is fluent in Afrikaans and Portuguese, which she learned from her boyfriend, Hermann Nicoli, a Brazilian male model. She has been dating him since she met him in Paris when she was 17. Candice Swanepoel is close friends with fellow African and Victoria's Secret Angel Behati Prinsloo and British model Rosie Huntington-Whiteley. References a b c d e f g Profile at Fashion Model Directory Solomon, Brian (14 June 2012). "The World's Highest Paid Models". Forbes.com. Forbes.com LLC. Retrieved 2012-06-20. "Mooiriver magic". Carte Blanche. 2005-05-29. Retrieved 2008-01-06. Go Behind the Scenes of the Victoria's Secret Swim Catalog! ETonline.com. Supermodel to open Edmonton Victoria’s Secret edmontonjournal.com Candice Swanepoel at FHM.com, 2011-02-04. http://www.maxim.com/hot-100/2012 and Steven Bertoni, Keren Blankfeld (5 May 2011). "The World's Top-Earning Models". forbes. Retrieved 11 May 2011. Born (New York Magazine) and raised (Daily Mail) "'Pretendo morar no Brasil', conta a angel Candice Swanepoel.Confira!" (in Portuguese). 180graus. 29 January 2011. Retrieved 20 August 2011. "?Candice Swanepoel para WLM??". YouTube. Retrieved 2011-07-03. "GQ South Africa". Img208.imagevenue.com. Retrieved 2011-07-03.
CANDICE SWANEPOEL HD WALLPAPER QUEEN OF VICTORIA'S SECRET

 Candice Swanepoel

 Born October 20, 1988 (age 24)
Mooi River, Natal Province, South Africa
Height 5 ft 9 in (1.75 m)
Hair color Dark blonde
Eye color Blue
Measurements (US) 33-23-34.5
(EU) 84-59-88
Dress size (US) 0-2 ; (EU) 32-34 ; (UK) 4-6
Manager Ice Model Management
IMG Models
Why Not Model Agency
Modelwerk
Website Official web site : www.candiceswanepoel.com
Candice Swanepoel (born 20 October 1988) is a South African model best known for her work with Victoria's Secret. In 2012, she came in 10th on the Forbes top-earning models list.

 Career 

 Candice Swanepoel was spotted by a model scout in a Durban flea market at age 15.
Swanepoel's resume includes covers for Australian, Greek, Spanish, Portuguese, Japanese and Italian Vogue, Brazilian, German and South African ELLE, British, South African, Romanian, Mexican and Chinese GQ, Turkish, Spanish, Russian, Czech and Argentinian Harper's Bazaar, i-D, Lush and Ocean Drive (U.S.) and advertisements for Nike, Diesel, Guess?, Tommy Hilfiger, Tom Ford, Prabal Gurung, Swarovski, Colcci, True Religion, Ralph Lauren, Miu Miu, Juicy Couture and Versace. Swanepoel has walked the runway for Tommy Hilfiger, Dolce and Gabbana, Michael Kors, Donna Karan, Giambattista Valli, Jason Wu, Prabal Gurung, Rag & Bone, Oscar de la Renta, Fendi, Chanel, Elie Saab, Diane von Fürstenberg, Sportmax, Betsey Johnson, Stella McCartney, Viktor and Rolf, Givenchy, Jean Paul Gaultier, Christian Dior, Blumarine and numerous other designers, as well as for Victoria's Secret since 2007. In addition to appearing in the lingerie brand's commercials, she was a featured model in the 2010 "SWIM" catalog, along with Lindsay Ellingson, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Behati Prinsloo and Erin Heatherton.In 2010, Swanepoel became a Victoria's Secret Angel. Swanepoel modeled for the Kardashians' 2010 swimwear line. On 12 August 2010 Swanepoel officially opened the first Victoria's Secret retail store in Canada, at West Edmonton Mall, Edmonton. In 2013, Swanepoel was named the cover model of the coveted Victoria's Secret Swim Catalogue.

 Popularity 
Swanepoel was voted #61 in 2010 and #62 in 2011 in FHM's annual "100 Sexiest Women in the World" poll and #31 in 2012 Maxim's "Hot 100 List".

 Wealth 
Swanepoel made her debut at No. 10 on Forbes' The World's Top-Earning Models list, with estimated earnings of $3 million between 2010 and 2011.

 Personal life 

 Swanepoel was born and raised in a small town called Mooi River in Natal Province, South Africa. She is fluent in Afrikaans and Portuguese, which she learned from her boyfriend, Hermann Nicoli, a Brazilian male model. She has been dating him since she met him in Paris when she was 17.
Candice Swanepoel is close friends with fellow African and Victoria's Secret Angel Behati Prinsloo and British model Rosie Huntington-Whiteley.

 References 

  a b c d e f g Profile at Fashion Model Directory
 Solomon, Brian (14 June 2012). "The World's Highest Paid Models". Forbes.com. Forbes.com LLC. Retrieved 2012-06-20.
 "Mooiriver magic". Carte Blanche. 2005-05-29. Retrieved 2008-01-06.
 Go Behind the Scenes of the Victoria's Secret Swim Catalog! ETonline.com.
 Supermodel to open Edmonton Victoria’s Secret edmontonjournal.com
 Candice Swanepoel at FHM.com, 2011-02-04.
 http://www.maxim.com/hot-100/2012
 and Steven Bertoni, Keren Blankfeld (5 May 2011). "The World's Top-Earning Models". forbes. Retrieved 11 May 2011.
 Born (New York Magazine) and raised (Daily Mail)
 "'Pretendo morar no Brasil', conta a angel Candice Swanepoel.Confira!" (in Portuguese). 180graus. 29 January 2011. Retrieved 20 August 2011.
 "?Candice Swanepoel para WLM??". YouTube. Retrieved 2011-07-03.

 "GQ South Africa". Img208.imagevenue.com. Retrieved 2011-07-03.
Posted by Nelio Inacio at 10:35 AM
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Friday, June 05, 2015

Here's How Those Justin Bieber and Kendall Jenner Ads Have Worked Out for Calvin Klein

Here's How Those Justin Bieber and Kendall Jenner Ads Have Worked Out for Calvin Klein:

Kendall Jenner's Calvin Klein campaign. Photo: Calvin Klein
Kendall Jenner's Calvin Klein campaign. Photo: Calvin Klein
If you're looking for virality and buzz, Calvin Klein's marketing department has certainly done a bang-up job this year. First came Justin Bieber's much-spoofed, probably Photoshopped underwear ads in early January, garnering the brand millions of new followers, and March brought even more thanks to a denim campaign featuring Kendall Jenner.

So, has shooting straight for the heart of youth city brought about real business gains?

Execs at PVH Corp, the parent company of Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger, said on a Tuesday morning webcast that they "believe [they're] beginning to connect with a younger customer." That's good. Men's underwear gained some market share during the first quarter of the year, which wrapped May 3, and the very manly-sounding "Intense Power" style the Biebs wore in his campaign has been selling well. But denim, the focus of Jenner's ads, is tricky: Calvin Klein has lost 50 percent of the market share it had four or five years ago, and the men's jeans business is turning around faster than women's, improvements in which the team describes as "flat-ish" at this point.

"It's better than it's been, but I wouldn't categorize jeans and denim as a hot category at this point," says CEO Emanuel Chirico.

To be fair, Jenner's ads were only live for a little over a month before the quarter wrapped. While we're sure she inspired some young lasses to snap up the limited edition denim collection she was shilling, perhaps the next quarter's results will show more of a lift.

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 6:17 AM
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Maya Thurman-Hawke Is Fashion's Latest Celebrity Offspring to Watch

Maya Thurman-Hawke Is Fashion's Latest Celebrity Offspring to Watch:

Maya Thurman-Hawke in Zac Posen at the CFDA Awards. Photo: Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images
Maya Thurman-Hawke in Zac Posen at the CFDA Awards. Photo: Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images
It wasn't long ago that the fashion world collectively swooned when Lily-Rose Depp, the 16-year-old daughter of Jonny Depp and Vanessa Paradis, made her red carpet debut at the Chanel Métiers d’Art show in New York City, dressed in a couture look from the French house. At Monday night's CFDA Awards, a similar situation occurred, and the fashion crowd was introduced to the latest celebrity offspring with "It" girl potential.

Maya Thurman-Hawke, the 16-year-old daughter of Ethan Hawke and Uma Thurman, arrived on the red carpet wearing a resort 2016 gown by Zac Posen, who doubled as her date for the evening. Posen is clearly smitten with the teen beauty, as he posted plenty of photos of her on Instagram before and during the event.

While she may prove to be Posen's new muse, she's not exactly a stranger to the fashion circuit, as she's attended movie premieres with both of her parents as well as the Miu Miu resort show with her mother in Paris last July. Now that Thurman-Hawke is all grown up and flying solo, we're calling it: she is definitely one to watch.

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 6:16 AM
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John Galliano Has a New Look

John Galliano Has a New Look:

A look from John Galliano's fall/winter 2015 womenswear collection. Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images
A look from John Galliano's fall/winter 2015 womenswear collection. Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images
Maison John Galliano is moving on.

Four years after the brand fired its namesake designer for going on an anti-Semitic rant in a Paris cafe, it has rebranded and taken on a fresh logo created by the creative agency Atelier Franck Durand. According to a release from the company, it's replaced the gothic lettering with a typeface based on an 18th century wood engraving: All upper case, rather even keeled and very much in line with other high fashion brands' logos — Lanvin, for instance, comes to mind.

The new look of John Galliano. Photo: John Galliano
The new look of John Galliano. Photo: John Galliano
Later in the year, the fashion house will release a campaign shot on the streets of London — to "evoke the brand's beginnings" — that bears the new visuals.

And while Galliano the brand is carving out a new identity for itself, Galliano the man is busy doing the same. The designer, who returned to the runway as the creative director of Maison Margiela in January, spoke at a London synagogue over the weekend, apologizing for his actions in 2011 and explaining that he's taken responsibility for his alcoholism. While the damage Galliano did runs deep, he certainly seems committed to proving himself to the world again.

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 6:16 AM
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