Sunday, May 24, 2015

Balmain Is H&M's Next Designer Collaboration

Balmain Is H&M's Next Designer Collaboration:

Photo: Jason Merritt/Getty Images
Photo: Jason Merritt/Getty Images
While most fashion obsessives tuned in to Sunday night's Billboard Music Awards to see Taylor Swift debut her supermodel-packed music video for "Bad Blood," Balmain's Olivier Rousteing dropped an unexpected announcement that immediately had social media abuzz. The designer arrived on the red carpet with Jourdan Dunn and Kendall Jenner in tow, both wearing head-to-toe looks which we thought were by the French house. However, Rousteing took the opportunity to tell the world that the ensembles were actually a first look at Balmain's upcoming collaboration with H&M.

The Swedish retailer has proved that it's fond of surprise collaboration announcements: Alexander Wang unveiled his with a secret after-party at Coachella and a midnight Instagram post that teased the news. E! correspondent Giuliana Rancic didn't get any additional details about the forthcoming collab — though H&M took to Twitter to confirm that it will be available beginning November 5 — but she did admit that Rousteing and his model sidekicks are "a crew you want to hang out with." Considering the designer's carefully considered "Balmain Army" and his huge social media following, we're thinking that's the exact sentiment he's going for — and the one that helped him score a deal with one of the most well-known retailers around the globe.

Stay tuned for more details on the Balmain for H&M collaboration as they emerge.

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 2:00 PM
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Revamped 'Maxim' Hotlist Focuses on Women's Accomplishments, Not Just Their Attractiveness

Revamped 'Maxim' Hotlist Focuses on Women's Accomplishments, Not Just Their Attractiveness:

Taylor Swift is #1 on the rebranded "Maxim" Hot List. Photo: Maxim
Taylor Swift is #1 on the rebranded "Maxim" Hot List. Photo: Maxim
As if the debut of her super-hyped "Bad Blood" video on Sunday night wasn't enough of a Taylor Swift barrage for you, here's more confirmation that the singer is riding high right now. Swift has been named #1 on Maxim's Hot List, the newly appointed editor-in-chief Kate Lanphear's upgraded version of the men's magazine's legendary list of attractive women. 

"I think it’s a great testament to the rebrand that we can attract people of Taylor's caliber," says Lanphear, who came to Maxim from T magazine in September and debuted her sophisticated vision for the brand in the March issue. "Taylor was chosen based on her accomplishments and I was determined to have someone whose talent really transcended their beauty."

Indeed, accomplishments and upcoming projects in the entertainment industry were the driving criteria for the women on this year's list, which includes Dakota Johnson, Joan Smalls, Emilia Clarke and Lupita Nyong’o. An unexpected inclusion is Italian actress Monica Bellucci, marking the first time a 50-year-old has been included. But Lanphear is particularly proud that Swift agreed to be featured on the cover because she's never marketed herself in a purely sexual way, and thus might not have agreed to pose for Maxim before Lanphear took over.

"I think so many people here rebrand, rebrand, rebrand and we’ve been working really hard to get the magazine in front of people in the industry because there is such a big change from cover to cover," says Lanphear. "It's a huge success — in my mind, one of our biggest successes — that someone like Taylor is comfortable in that space." The Maxim June/July 2015 issue marks Swift's first appearance on the cover of a men's magazine. This month, she is also on the cover of Elle.              

Inside the "Maxim" June/July issue. Photo: Maxim
Inside the "Maxim" June/July issue. Photo: Maxim
Another major mark that the magazine has changed? Lanphear got celebrated writer Roxane Gay to pen an essay about beauty to open the list. Gay — who is known for her book of essays "Bad Feminist" and her commentary for Salon — does not gloss over the superficial nature of a list of hot women. "There is a beauty standard, no doubt," she writes. "But we can and should widen that standard."

None of the women on the Hot List, including Swift, were photographed specifically for this issue. "Traditionally what we do is handpick the images and circle back," explains Lanphear. With Swift and her team's approval, Maxim picked up images from a cover she did for artsy British magazine Wonderland. Shot by photographer Thomas Whiteside for the November/December 2014 issue, Swift was styled with wet hair, dewy skin and bold brows.

The entire issue isn't pickup photography, however, or devoted to attractive women. It features lists of the hottest bars, clubs and summer movie reboots all fitting under the "hot" the theme, including a feature on hot sauce. There are also two fashion editorials starring couples. One features actors Ed Skrein and Tatjana Pajković of the new "Transporter" film alongside men's accessories from brands like Coach and Mr. Porter. The other editorial stars artist Tali Lennox and boyfriend Ian Jones, the result of a collaborative effort with Lennox, an artist.

"We are having great success attracting collaborative talent," says Lanphear, adding that an online poll of Maxim readers showed a 70 percent approval rating of the redesign. Advertisers are supportive so far, too: The March 2015 issue featured 30 more ad pages than the March 2014 issue, according to Capital New York.

"Now we have celebrity talent and models coming to us," says Lanphear. "It feels like we’ve gone from zero to sixty. Sometimes you forget it's only been three issues. It's just about continuing to build momentum."

 Maxim's June/July 2015 issue will start hitting newsstands on Wednesday.



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J.Crew Debuts Collaborations With Paul Andrew, Eva Fehren and Ryan Roche

J.Crew Debuts Collaborations With Paul Andrew, Eva Fehren and Ryan Roche:

Paul Andrew with a model wearing one of his shoe designs. Photo: J.Crew
Paul Andrew with a model wearing one of his shoe designs. Photo: J.Crew
J.Crew's involvement with the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund runs deep. J.Crew Creative Director Jenna Lyons serves as a judge, and each year the Fund winner and runners up go straight to work with Tom Mora, J.Crew's head of women's design, on a collaboration to debut in May. The fifth and latest — with shoe designer Paul Andrew, jewelry designer Eva Fehren and knitwear designer Ryan Roche — is available for pre-order beginning Monday.

The collaboration process begins the day after the Fund winners are announced in early November, says Mora. It's a tight turnaround for J.Crew — the spring collection is already completed by that time, and even the monthly Style Guides (aka spring catalogs) are already photographed. Lyons and Mora meet with each of the designers individually to discuss the guidelines for the collaboration, outlining the process and the fabrics available. Mora says the designers are given quite a bit of freedom: For instance, a shoe designer doesn't necessarily have to do shoes. Once the designers come up with a general theme, they send sketches, which Mora shows to Lyons, who might give some notes. Then Mora gets to work with his team to get everything into production. Once samples are in, Mora meets with each of the designers to fit everything and make final changes.

Ryan Roche x J.Crew. Photo: J.Crew
Ryan Roche x J.Crew. Photo: J.Crew
"The designers get to be very hands on," Mora explains. "It's great because they get to see how a big company works. You can see their excitement." While the designers benefit from working with a well-known retailer, designing for a different customer and making more people aware of their brand, Mora says J.Crew's design team benefits from seeing how other designers work and bringing some uniqueness to the overall offering.

Each time one of these collaborations rolls around, we're always struck by how well the end result balances the designer's aesthetic with J.Crew's, especially given that J.Crew doesn't exactly choose the collaborators (unless you count Lyons's participation in the judging process). Each piece makes sense in a J.Crew store, but still bears the distinct look of the designer. Mora says the designers are encouraged not to stray too far from their usual range because they're young and "only just building their signatures." As for whether that can result in items looking too similar to pieces in a designer's main line, Mora says that "never comes up as an issue" because there's always some tweak and the materials are usually different from the ones the designer typically uses.

All in all, if you're a fan of any of these designers, this is a good opportunity to grab something they designed at comparatively affordable price point. Browse each collection, with price ranges, below.


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Ann Taylor Bought by Owner of Lane Bryant

Ann Taylor Bought by Owner of Lane Bryant:

Models at the Ann Taylor spring 2015 presentation. Photo: JP Yim/Getty Images
Models at the Ann Taylor spring 2015 presentation. Photo: JP Yim/Getty Images
Rumblings began in February that Ann Inc., parent company of the Ann Taylor and Loft brands, was looking for a buyer. And as of Monday, it has one. Ascena Retail Group announced that it has entered into a merger agreement under which it will acquire the retailer for a combination of cash and stock valuing the company at about $2 billion.

In exchange for each Ann Inc. share, investors will receive $37.34 in cash and 0.68 of Ascena stock. All together, Ann Inc. investors will own about 16 percent of Ascena. The deal is expected to close in the second half of the year.

Brands currently under the Ascena umbrella include Lane Bryant, Dressbarn, Cacique and Maurices, and it sounds like Ann Taylor plans to take advantage of Ascena's experience in the women's mass retail market. "The transaction will make us part of a larger organization with a diversified portfolio of brands focused on the women's apparel market, a strong operating platform and a powerful financial base," stated Kay Krill, president and CEO of Ann Inc. She adds that the company plans to "take steps to better strategically and operationally position our brands for the dynamics that are redefining the landscape of the women's specialty retailing industry."

Like many retailers, Ann Taylor has struggled in recent years due to a changing environment, heavy discounting and increased competition. That said, it's begun to show signs of recovery, posting a sales increase of about 4 percent in the fourth quarter of 2014.

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'Game of Thrones' Introduces Another Unhappy Wedding Dress

'Game of Thrones' Introduces Another Unhappy Wedding Dress:

Don't do it, Sansa. Photo: Helen Sloan/HBO
Don't do it, Sansa. Photo: Helen Sloan/HBO
Anything involving matrimony in the Seven Kingdoms seems generally like a bad idea, and last night's "Game of Thrones" episode did nothing to change my opinion of this. Somber even by GoT standards, the episode featured Sansa marrying the increasingly horrible Ramsay Bolton, Jaime trying to rescue his daughter/niece without success, Margaery and her hot brother being thrown in jail, and Tyrion and Jorah getting captured by slavers. At least we were spared Daenerys making any bad leadership decisions. Small mercies.

Let's see what everyone wore during all of this misery.

Trystane and Myrcella

Young love. Photo: Macall B. Polay/HBO
Young love. Photo: Macall B. Polay/HBO
Cersei's daughter Myrcella is really blossoming, and she and the cute Trystane Marcell  — who could totally be in a Dornish boy band — make a pretty adorable couple. Bonus points for Myrcella matching her hair flower to Trystane's tunic. That being said, they should not under any circumstances get married. Something terrible will happen.

Trystane Wears Pink Confidently

Pretty. Photo: Macall B. Polay/HBO
Pretty. Photo: Macall B. Polay/HBO
Let's take a closer look at Trystane and his fashion choices. Despite the pink and gold brocade, a healthy expanse of visible chest hair, and large chunky accessories, he totally wears his outfit. It does not wear him. We don't really know if he's only a pretty boy or if more lies under the surface. Time will tell.

Hey, Look at All the Heads

But where are the bodies? Photo: Helen Sloan/HBO
But where are the bodies? Photo: Helen Sloan/HBO
Arya progresses on to the next level of weird assassin school at the House of Black and White by being introduced to the Hall of Heads. Speaking of heads, her hair is growing out nicely, but she could use some dry shampoo or a cute hair clip or something. She's still wearing the sack-like dress, but based on teasers, we know that Arya's full-on makeover is still coming.

Jaime in Disguise

Is that you, Uncle Jaime? Photo: Macall B. Polay/HBO
Is that you, Uncle Jaime? Photo: Macall B. Polay/HBO
Jaime uses one of the oldest plot devices in the book, wearing the uniform of some guards he killed to blend in at the Dorne palace. (See also: Luke Skywalker and Han Solo dressing up as stormtroopers in the original Star Wars.) He should wear color more often because it suits him. Too bad he and Bronn botched Myrcella's rescue, though. Not that she seems to want to be rescued.

Boob Armor, Redux

Does that leather armor chafe? Macall B. Polay/HBO
Does that leather armor chafe? Macall B. Polay/HBO
We were first introduced to the Sand Snakes, Oberyn's bastard daughters who want to avenge his death by messing with Myrcella, a few weeks ago. I like Obara Sand and her boob armor. I have a strange feeling she's going to be killed off soon, though, just like her daddy. However, for the moment she and her sisters are really throwing a wrinkle into Cersei's plan to get her daughter back.

Margaery Goes to Jail

Photo: Helen Sloan/HBO
Photo: Helen Sloan/HBO
Cersei and the formidable Lady Olenna, Margaery's grandmother, deliciously butted heads in this episode, but Cersei obviously wins this round. She managed to get the religious police to throw both Loras and Margaery in jail for "buggery," and aiding and abetting said buggery, respectively. Hopefully they let Margaery change out of that lovely dress before they put her in jail. Cersei, girl: Watch your back. Do not mess with Lady Olenna.

Keep Your Friends Close and Your Enemies Closer

So much shade here. Photo: Helen Sloan/HBO
So much shade here. Photo: Helen Sloan/HBO
Myranda, Ramsay's crazy girlfriend, decides to help Sansa bathe on her wedding night, then proceeds to tell her all sorts of horrible things about how Ramsay hunted down all his ex-girlfriends. Sansa shuts Myranda down pretty quickly, but I fear it is all talk. Makeover note: Sans washes out the black hair dye and goes back to her natural red. I sort of wish she had left the black, because that was symbolic of her newfound badassery, which she will obviously need in her new marriage.

Sansa's Second Wedding

Nooooooo. Photo: Helen Sloan/HBO
Nooooooo. Photo: Helen Sloan/HBO
Let's not talk about who Sansa is marrying, and just discuss her dress. It's very "Frozen"-esque, and I love the fur shawl. It's absolutely perfect for a nighttime Winterfell wedding.

Reek Cleans Up Nicely

Theon is back. Photo: Helen Sloan/HBO
Theon is back. Photo: Helen Sloan/HBO
Ramsay, in his usual sadistic manner, has decided that Theon/Reek should walk Sansa down the aisle and give her away. What is encouraging here is that a bit of Theon comes peeking through, thanks to the clean clothes. This can only mean good things for Sansa, right? RIGHT??

A Wedding Night

NOOOOOO. Photo: Helen Sloan/HBO
NOOOOOO. Photo: Helen Sloan/HBO
This wedding night rape scene, complete with Theon/Reek watching, was one of the most difficult scenes I've watched in all five seasons of "Game of Thrones," and that is saying something. I have to hope that the writers will finally let Sansa have some justice eventually. She and Theon must team up and throw Ramsay to his own hunting dogs or something equally as terrible.

Jorah and Tyrion Get Captured

Prosperous-looking slavers. Photo: Helen Sloan/HBO
Prosperous-looking slavers. Photo: Helen Sloan/HBO
This scene, despite Jorah and Tyrion getting captured, provided the one bit of levity in last night's show. Tyrion, convincing the slavers not to kill him and that his, erm, manhood, is not, in fact, dwarf-sized, was a needed bit of wit. He's going to be just fine. Jorah, with his newly diagnosed greyscale, maybe not so much. Whoever kills this slaver (Daenerys's boy toy Daario, maybe?) should keep that cool leather belt.

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Victoria Beckham Merges Denim and Lower-Priced Lines

Victoria Beckham Merges Denim and Lower-Priced Lines:

A look from Victoria, Victoria Beckham's fall 2015. Photo: Victoria, Victoria Beckham
A look from Victoria, Victoria Beckham's fall 2015. Photo: Victoria, Victoria Beckham
In the fashion industry, 2015 may be remembered as the year brands simplified. Following Kate Spade's decision to fold its Saturday line into its main label, and Marc Jacobs's move to integrate Marc by Marc Jacobs into the Marc Jacobs collection, Victoria Beckham just announced that she's merging her lower-priced line Victoria, Victoria Beckham with her denim offshoot, Victoria Beckham Denim.

While Beckham's main collection focuses on luxe materials and sophisticated silhouettes — as well as expert tailoring that shows off the body for a bit of sex appeal — her lower-priced line is primarily about daywear and breezy "lifestyle" pieces. Since denim easily fits into the latter category, the merger seems like it will make it much easier for her customer to find what she needs to fill out her wardrobe, all under one label. Prices in the Victoria, Victoria collection will range from $195 to $1,900, and the two lines will become one starting with the resort 2016 collection.

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 1:55 PM
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News Brief: Balmain Partners with H&M, Amanda Seyfried Covers 'Vogue'

News Brief: Balmain Partners with H&M, Amanda Seyfried Covers 'Vogue':

Actress Amanda Seyfried on the June 2015 cover of "Vogue." Photo: Vogue
Actress Amanda Seyfried on the June 2015 cover of "Vogue." Photo: Vogue
These are the stories making headlines in fashion this morning.

Amanda Seyfried covers Vogue for the first timeWith memorable roles in "Mean Girls," "Mamma Mia" and "Les Misérables," among others, Amanda Seyfried's first Vogue cover was long overdue. In the June issue, she talks about rehearsing for her first theater role in "The Way We Get By," turning 30, and her beloved dog, Finn. {Vogue} 

H&M and Balmain partner for next designer collaborationAt the Billboard Music Awards Sunday evening, Olivier Rousteing announced that Balmain, the French fashion house of which he is creative director, will be the next brand to partner with H&M. His dates, models Jourdan Dunn and Kendall Jenner, both wore looks from the upcoming collection, which hits stores Nov. 5. {Fashionista}

Mrs. Prada is over the whole aging thing

Over a plate of panna cotta, Miuccia Prada spoke with the The Guardian about the Fondazione Prada's giant new gallery space in Milan, her rejection of the term "art collector" and how she feels about aging. “First of all, I had this problem – worrying about looking old – when I was 33 and thank God I got over it and it never came back," she says. "Second, we will arrive there. The world is aging, so from a commercial point of view, eventually people will start saying: it [being older] is fantastic." {The Guardian}

Taylor Swift's "Bad Blood" music video was full of supermodels

Taylor Swift ensured a seriously buzz-worthy premiere for her"Bad Blood" music video with a two-week campaign revealing all the celebrity guests who took part. See her in a variety of CGI-fueled fight sequences alongside leggy friends like Karlie Kloss, Cara Delevingne, Lily Aldridge and many, many more. {Fashionista}

What the Trans-Pacific Partnership means for fashionCongress and the Obama administration are trying to fast-track a bill that would allow the president to enter into a trade agreement with countries such as Vietnam, Japan, Malaysia and Australia. Supporters of the Trans-Pacific Partnership says the agreement will make American-made products look more attractive to other countries, while others worry that making it even more affordable to import goods from abroad will further deter companies from manufacturing here in the U.S. {Fashionista}

Ann Taylor acquired by Lane Bryant owner

After months of speculation, Ann Inc. — which owns Ann Taylor and Loft — has been bought by Ascena Retail Group for a combined cash and stock value of $2 billion. Ann Inc. joins women's retail brands Lane Bryant, Dressbarn, Cacique and Maurices at Ascena. {Fashionista}

Joshua Jackson to present at the CFDA AwardsJoshua Jackson will be among the presenters at this year's CFDA Awards, alongside Taraji P. Henson, who will present the accessories award, and Amanda Seyfried, who will present women’s wear. Mostly, we're excited to see what Jackson's date, Diane Kruger, decides to wear. {WWD}

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 1:53 PM
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A Firsthand Account of Vienna’s Life Ball, Where Fashion Takes Center Stage

A Firsthand Account of Vienna’s Life Ball, Where Fashion Takes Center Stage:

Franca Sozzani and Kelly Osbourne at the Life Ball opening ceremony. Photo: Nigel Treblin/Life Ball 2015/Getty Images
Franca Sozzani and Kelly Osbourne at the Life Ball opening ceremony. Photo: Nigel Treblin/Life Ball 2015/Getty Images
Last Thursday, I was flown to Vienna in a chartered plane for Life Ball, known by those who’ve heard of it as an over-the-top, glamorous, weekend-long party filled with celebrities, models, drag queens and debauchery. Born out of a desire to raise money and awareness for the fight against HIV/AIDS in a positive way, Life Ball attracts a who’s who of the LGBTQ community, and its hard-partying reputation is not unfounded.

The celebrations began at JFK Thursday evening, where champagne was served before boarding (making for a rather rowdy flight), and didn’t end until well into Sunday morning — one after-party didn't even start until 5 a.m. The ball itself draws around 40,000 spectators for the opening ceremony, which included performances by a ballet company, Vienna’s Spanish riding school, Mary J. Blige, Conchita Wurst and several others. Around 4,000 stay for the actual party, which takes place inside Vienna’s City Hall — basically a huge, neo-gothic castle, filled with rooms decorated in different themes.

But the Life Ball really revolves around fashion: Before the event, the organizers shoot and publish a “Style Bible” to serve as inspiration for how guests should dress. And everyone, from the celebrities to the plebes, goes all out. This year’s theme was gold, resulting in what must have been the highest concentration of gold sequins in one city ever.

The weekend includes several opportunities to exhibit an on-theme look, beginning with the plane’s arrival in Vienna Friday morning, where a literal red carpet was set up on the tarmac for guests and celebrities including Kelly Osbourne, Paula Abdul, Carmen Electra, Dita von Teese and Anna Cleveland to preen for Austrian press outlets. (Several guests managed to change into full drag on the plane before getting off.) Then, there was a welcome party Friday night, a press conference Saturday morning, a dinner Saturday evening, followed by the main event, which you entered via an enormous, sparkly “magenta carpet.” This was no place for minimalism — I looked pretty out of place in my navy Katie Ermilio column gown, much as I loved it. And while some stuck to the black tie dress code, most of the outfits veered into costume territory: I saw lots of angel wings, headpieces, wigs, bodypaint, nipple pasties, leotards and other things I can’t really explain. The drag queens, many of whom I watched arrive together on a drag queen bus, won the most points for creativity, hands down.

The opening ceremony concluded with a Jean Paul Gaultier runway show, which I sadly couldn’t see due to a seating mishap that left myself and several other fashion editors standing barefoot (we’d already been standing in heels for hours) at the back of the room. But we heard it featured a mix of archival couture pieces and specially designed gold outfits inspired by the Life Ball theme, and Kelly Osbourne, Ellen von Unwerth, Carmen Carrera, Dita von Teese, Anna Cleveland, Amanda Lepore, Carmen Electra, Ladyfag, Lydia Hearst and Paula Abdul all walked (see pictures below). There was also apparently some sort of "Life Ball Queen" fashion competition judged by Kelly Osbourne and Vogue Italia Editor Franca Sozzani.

All in all, it was a spectacle, and one that makes it easy to forget that there is a charitable cause behind it. The way that Life Ball functions as a fundraiser is a little difficult to understand: Ticket prices vary based on the level of access you get (the fancy area with food and free booze costs more) and were sold out within minutes, I was told. It’s organized by AIDS Life, described in press materials as “a charitable association” that “supports” other non-profits and HIV/AIDS-related projects. “We’re making a loud scream for awareness,” explained AIDS Life Chairman and Life Ball CEO Gery Keszler during a press conference. “Life Ball is a platform bringing people together from all walks of life raising money for many national and international programs.”

Among the programs AIDS Life works with are amfAR, Clinton Health Access Initiative (CHAI), Charlize Theron Africa Outreach Project, Elton John AIDS Foundation and Sentebale, a charity founded by Prince Harry of Wales that helps children at risk for HIV/AIDS in southern Africa, and which this year received a “Crystal of Hope Award,” donated by Swarovski and given each year to an outstanding initiative. Theron and her partner, Sean Penn, both made speeches about the global fight to eradicate AIDS during the Life Ball opening ceremony, though people mostly talked about how great she looked in her Givenchy dress. (She really did look great.)

The whole thing made me think about what fashion — from the gilded gowns and costumes to the runway show finale — brings to a charitable cause. While it certainly brings attention and excitement, it seems like it can also detract from an event's mission, hence why "AIDS fundraiser" is not the first thing people think of when you bring up Life Ball. Rather, it's largely about seeing and being seen — though in a refreshingly non-judgmental way.

The event's tagline is "fighting AIDS and celebrating life." While it could work on bringing that first part to the forefront of the Life Ball conversation, it does a phenomenal job at the second part.

Disclosure: Fashionista was invited to the Life Ball by Bergdorf Goodman with travel and accommodations provided by Austrian Air and Hilton, respectively.

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 1:52 PM
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Lauren's Easy Party Frock

Lauren's Easy Party Frock:

Like many a New Yorker, I'm short on closet space. And the last things I'd like to fill my closet with are party dresses that I only take out once or twice a year.

With that in mind, I went out this weekend in search of an easy summer party dress: Something anonymous and versatile enough to be dressed up or down depending on the formality of the occasion, but interesting in its own right.

My search began and ended at Club Monaco, where I found a navy A-line tank dress with a scoop neck, roomy pleated bodice and flattering handkerchief hem. It's the kind of dress I could wear to work with flat sandals and a little gold necklace, and out to a rooftop party with black stiletto sandals and a chunky Marni statement accessory. In other words, it was exactly what I was looking for. And the price was right.

Club Monaco Runi Dress, $269, available at Club Monaco.

Please note: Occasionally, we use affiliate links on our site. This in no way affects our editorial decision-making.

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Anthropologie Knows You've Been Disappointed With Its Dresses and Accessories Lately

Anthropologie Knows You've Been Disappointed With Its Dresses and Accessories Lately:

Photo: Anthropologie
Photo: Anthropologie
Last year, the financial news out of Urban Inc. took on a familiar refrain each quarter. Urban Outfitters was digging itself out of the sales hole it had fallen into, while Free People bounded ahead, fueled by the Coachella mania that gripped a nation of young women's sartorial preferences. Anthropologie just kind of skated by, its growth not as delightfully double-digit as Free People's, but still positive.

The first quarter of fiscal 2016 wrapped up on April 30, and with it, Urban Outfitters is officially growing at a faster clip than Anthropologie. Comparable sales — that is, those only for stores that have been around a full year — rose 5 percent at Urban to $296 million and just 1 percent at Anthropologie to $311 million. (Like a pint-sized goody two-shoes, Free People grew 17 percent during the period, though it still represents the smallest proportion of overall sales at $132 million.)

So what's going wrong? And right?

According to the executive team, Anthropologie messed up on dresses and accessories. As far as the frocks go, the silhouettes and fabrics weren't a hit, the price points were off and the brand didn't have enough casual options. So the customer shook her head and said, "Nah." A newer assortment will hit stores in June and early July, and with luck Anthropologie will get its dress game back on track.

That said, the brand did see one dress category take off: Wedding dresses. In fact, sales for its bridal line, Bhldn, tripled during the quarter. Encouraged by the growth, Anthropologie will be adding bridesmaid dresses to its range in the next year. Not-so-incidentally, Free People is now getting into the wedding game as well, having launched the website for a bridal collection called Ever After on Monday. The dresses in the line are typically lacy and bohemian, ranging from $500 to $4,000. (Is anyone willing to drop $4,000 on a wedding dress going to do so at Free People? We're curious to see.)

Urban Outfitters, meanwhile, is doing solid work reducing its markdowns and de-cluttering its stores. (A poorly merchandised, overwhelming store experience had been a stated concern in previous quarters.) At this point, execs say, only the men's categories are down. Sounds like progress.

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 1:51 PM
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Burberry's Resort 2016 Collection Is All About Texture

Burberry's Resort 2016 Collection Is All About Texture:

Photo: Burberry
Photo: Burberry
How convenient that the 2016 resort collections are beginning to roll out just as we're looking for summer style inspiration. Burberry's latest collection is packed with vacation-ready looks, featuring a playful mix of textures in macramé, mesh and lace. From a short-sleeved dress in a ochre-colored weave, to an animal-print trench with frayed edges, every single look is not only visually interesting but also invitingly touchable. The patchwork dresses come in relatively conservative silhouettes, but thanks to some sheer paneling, cutouts, peek-a-boo lace and strategically placed ribbon, they're still sexy enough for an evening out.

To accent the collection, Burberry also is introducing its take on the bucket bag — called the Baby Bucket — which comes in an array of street style-ready textures and colors.

Enlarge the gallery below to see the full collection.

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 1:50 PM
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Friday, May 22, 2015

National Labor Relations Board Dismisses Complaints Against American Apparel

National Labor Relations Board Dismisses Complaints Against American Apparel:

An American Apparel store. Photo: Andrew Burton
An American Apparel store. Photo: Andrew Burton
Over the last month, the executive team at American Apparel has been embroiled in a war with its ousted founder, Dov Charney, as Charney seeks a way to take back control of the company. Late April saw a host of lawsuits against AA from former employees. Their claims? They weren't given sufficient notice of layoffs; the ex-CFO schemed to get Charney fired; and that board members withheld crucial information from shareholders. Documents emerged alleging that Charney had called employees "sluts" and "pigs" during his time as CEO. Last week, Charney sued for defamation, and American Apparel sued him right back for violating an agreement he signed upon stepping down.

So if you're just now tuning in, that's where we are.

As of Tuesday, at least five labor complaints filed against the company have been dismissed by the National Labor Relations Board based on "lack of cooperation by the Charging Party." The charges were filed by the attorneys Sarah Hernandez and Keith Fink of Fink & Steinberg; Fink also represents Charney.

Meaning, Team Dov has hit a snag in their plan. While this is a good thing for American Apparel's PR game, the filing parties can appeal by May 29. Our guess is they will.

Update: Indeed, Fink says that four of those complaints will be re-filed as early as Tuesday.

"The NLRB meets with witnesses and the claimants. If someone cannot make a meeting because of illness or work issues the matter is dismissed. However, the matter can be re-filed within six months. Recently some matters were dismissed based on the complainant being UNABLE to go to the NLRB because of work and family issues," Fink wrote in an e-mail to Fashionista.

"AA is attempting to dupe and mislead the media and public by leaking the 'dismissals,'" he added. "What they leave out is not a single one was dismissed on the merits."

A spokesperson for American Apparel, meanwhile, provided the following statement.

"Dov Charney, Dov Charney's lawyer and other people related to Dov Charney continue to bring claims that are wrong on the facts and wrong on the law. Each of these claims is rooted in the same exact agenda. These meritless claims serve as public relations opportunities now, but they will each fail the test when put before a judge. American Apparel's new management is focused on restoring the financial health of the company and does not intend to waste time addressing each of these meritless claims in the court of public opinion. We are confident we will succeed on every one of these in the proper venue.”

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 8:27 AM
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News Brief: Women Reportedly Banned From Cannes Screening for Wearing Flats, Changing Fashion Cycle Sparks Confusion

News Brief: Women Reportedly Banned From Cannes Screening for Wearing Flats, Changing Fashion Cycle Sparks Confusion:

Rooney Mara, director Todd Haynes and Cate Blanchett attend the Premiere of "Carol" at the Cannes Film Festival on May 17. Photo: Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images
Rooney Mara, director Todd Haynes and Cate Blanchett attend the Premiere of "Carol" at the Cannes Film Festival on May 17. Photo: Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images
These are the stories making headlines in fashion this morning.

Women reportedly turned away from Cannes screening for wearing flats

Gender inequality has been the hot topic at this year's Cannes Film Festival — but some of the event's organizers apparently didn't get the memo. According to Screen Daily, some female guests — several of them elderly — were turned away from a screening of Cate Blanchett and Rooney Mara's new film, "Carol," for wearing flats, which were deemed inappropriate. Chiming in on Twitter, other women said they have had to argue their way into screenings for wearing shoes that didn't pass muster, even if medical reasons warranted it. {The Independent}

Nasty Gal wrongly claims Taylor Swift wore its Balmain knockoff to the Billboard Music Awards

Fast-fashion retailers are notorious for riffing off designer collections, but few are as precise in their replicas as Nasty Gal, which mistakenly claimed credit for the white jumpsuit Taylor Swift wore to the Billboard Music Awards on Instagram. The jumpsuit is in fact by Balmain, and Nasty Gal has since deleted the post. {Fashionista}

The fashion cycle is in flux, and it's confusing everyone

For years, designers have complained that the longstanding fashion cycle — where fashion collections are shown six months before they hit stores, giving fast-fashion retailers plenty of time to design and sell knockoffs — is broken. Increasingly, designers are setting their own calendars: While most fall/winter 2015 shows took place in February, Versus Versace waited to show its fall/winter 2015 collection last week, at the same time it arrived in stores. And T by Alexander Wang decided to hold back photos of its pre-fall 2015 collection until Monday, just two months before it goes on sale. While the moves might be a step in the right direction for brands, it's creating a whole lot of confusion for press and consumers alike. {The Independent}

Pharrell's next Adidas collab drops May 30

The fourth installment of Pharrell Williams's collaboration with Adidas, which kicked off 14 months ago, will hit stores and adidas.com on May 30. Once again, Williams has reimagined the athletic brand's Stan Smith shoe, this time done in a floral brocade, one turquoise and one beige, with a matching turquoise jacket. The shoes will ring in at about $205; the jacket, of which only 200 are being produced, at $854. {WWD}

Vivienne Westwood to streamline fashion lines
Marc Jacobs, Kate Spade and Victoria Beckham aren't the only design labels consolidating their diffusion lines: Vivienne Westwood is planning to reduce her four lines — Red Label, Gold Label, Man and Anglomania — into two by the end of next year. {Fashionista}

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 8:27 AM
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10 Looks We Loved from SCAD's Student Fashion Show

10 Looks We Loved from SCAD's Student Fashion Show:

A look by Nicole Rodriguez. Photo: SCAD
A look by Nicole Rodriguez. Photo: SCAD
Saturday night was a thumping, whooping affair for the Savannah College of Art and Design's graduating class. Students, faculty and a smattering of industry types including Vivienne Westwood and André Leon Talley (a trustee at the school), streamed into the SCAD Museum of Art for a runway show featuring the work of 37 undergraduates and grad students who were selected during a jury process the weekend prior. At 105 looks, it could have felt long enough to settle into your seat, were it not for the soundtrack's bass line reverberating through the floors of the gallery.

The show opened strong, with a tailored crop top and baggy, striped jeans by a student named Carmela Osorio Lugo, who found inspiration in construction workers. Neutrals broke into pattern play and evening wear of every sort — fluid and slinky, handpainted, lacy. Although students have the tendency to overwork their pieces — one alumnus who came back for the show said he kicks himself for that in retrospect — one student proved that more can be more with a joyful series of brightly colored pieces embellished with big, kitschy appliqués or built into exaggerated shapes with layered yarn. (After the show, Talley said he was personally taken with Abbey Eilermann's egg-shaped, hot pink yarn dress, as well as the finale look, a cheeky jacket and skirt set with trompe l'oeil pockets by Olivia Latinovich.)

Though most professional designers simply pop out from backstage for a little wave at the end of their shows, the beaming students streamed out from the wings at the presentation's close for their own walk down the runway. After all, it was their night, wasn't it?

Click on for 10 of the best looks from the SCAD student show.

Disclosure: SCAD paid for my travel and accommodation in Savannah to cover its senior fashion show.

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 8:26 AM
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'Lucky' Reduces Publication to Quarterly

'Lucky' Reduces Publication to Quarterly:

The Lucky Group President Gillian Gorman Round is among those leaving the company. Photo:Michael Kovac/Getty Images
The Lucky Group President Gillian Gorman Round is among those leaving the company. Photo:Michael Kovac/Getty Images
Three weeks after its prominent Editor in Chief, Eva Chen, announced her plans to depart, The Lucky Group revealed Tuesday that it is reducing the publishing frequency of its print magazine from 10 times a year to four, and that its president, Gillian Gorman Round, is also leaving the company to return" to the marketing world," a spokesperson said.

In conjunction with the move, the e-commerce site/glossy — which was once owned fully by Condé Nast, but was spun into a separate venture with e-commerce startup Beachmint last year — has laid off 14 staffers. Eight were let go from the ad side, and six on editorial, including a market editor, junior accessories editor and managers for copy, research and production. Ten other staffers were laid off in February.

News that Lucky was moving to a quarterly format was first reported by Adweek. Josh Berman, CEO of The Lucky Group, told the trade that the May issue will be Lucky's last in its current format, and a new edition will bow in September with upgraded paper stock to give it a "premium 'collectible' feeling." The company will continue to build out its website, luckyshops.com, including its video offerings.

According to Adweek, The Lucky Group is currently in talks with several other companies about forming a joint venture or an acquisition, with an announcement expected this summer.

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 8:25 AM
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News Brief: PoachIt is Shuttering, Condé Nast Reportedly Introducing Fellowship Program

News Brief: PoachIt is Shuttering, Condé Nast Reportedly Introducing Fellowship Program:

Mobile price-tracking service PoachIt has closed. Photo: Paula Bronstein/Getty Images
Mobile price-tracking service PoachIt has closed. Photo: Paula Bronstein/Getty Images
These are the stories making headlines in fashion today.

PoachIt is no more

Price-tracking service PoachIt alerted its customers on Monday that after three years, it is shutting down as of Thursday. This follows the demise of a similar app, Hukkster, which closed down its business last August before coming back to life in April as a daily deals site. {Fashionista Inbox}

Kim Kardashian will be a presenter at the CFDA AwardsSpecifically, she'll give the CFDA Media Award to the founder of Instagram, Kevin Systrom. She announced the news on — you guessed it — Instagram. {Fashionista}

Foreign department stores eyeing China, despite challenges
Brand recognition and heritage are keys to surviving in the country's challenging retail market. Britain's House of Fraser has plans to open three stores there and Macy's is thinking about following suit.  {Business of Fashion}

Has Condé Nast revamped its internship program?

The publishing company, which shut down its unpaid intern program in 2013 after getting hit with a huge lawsuit, is reportedly finalizing plans for a paid, six-month, full-time fellowship program similar to one that Wired already has in place. {Racked}

Kering released its first Environmental Profit and Loss AccountThe luxury conglomerate has released a self-evaluation of the environmental impact made by its brands and suppliers, based on data from 2013. It concluded that 93 percent of the most damaging processes occur towards the beginning of the supply chain, specifically during raw material production.  {Style.com}

More sad news for LuckyFourteen staffers were laid off on Tuesday, including president Gillian Gorman Round, With the announcement that  the print magazine is now quarterly. A joint venture or acquisition is expected this summer. {Fashionista}

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 8:25 AM
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Tommy Hilfiger Will Show Men's Collection in Both London and New York

Tommy Hilfiger Will Show Men's Collection in Both London and New York:

"BOYYYYS!" Photo: Imaxtree
"BOYYYYS!" Photo: Imaxtree
Gird your loins, men's editors. Tommy's coming for you.

Already a mainstay at New York Fashion Week, Tommy Hilfiger is making moves to establish its relevance in the fast-growing high fashion men's world. The brand announced Tuesday that it will be presenting its spring 2016 menswear collection both at the inaugural New York Fashion Week: Men's, which will take place this July, and at London Collections: Men in June. While it's held dinners during London: Collections Men in the past, this will be its first time actually showing a collection. Why not go for maximum visibility?

According to the website for New York Fashion Week: Men's, designer confirmations are still rolling in. With Hilfiger, there are now 15 names on the roster, a mix of big-name brands and up-and comers including Calvin Klein, Michael Kors, Rag & Bone, Public School and Orley.

Homepage photo: Frederick M. Brown/Getty Images

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 8:24 AM
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Emily Blunt Keeps It Colorful in Cannes

Emily Blunt Keeps It Colorful in Cannes:

Photo: Tristan Fewings/Getty Images
Photo: Tristan Fewings/Getty Images
The Cannes Film Festival rages on in France, and although many of our favorite style stars are using the ample red carpets as opportunities to take some fashion risks, a neutral palette of black, white and grey is still extremely popular. Thankfully, Emily Blunt, who's in Cannes to promote her movie "Sicario," decided to have a little fun at the film's photocall on Tuesday, choosing a playful Peter Pilotto dress from the label's fall 2015 collection. When we saw this look, we couldn't help but smile. With colorful squares, snaking squiggly lines and metallic embellishments that recall a futuristic board game, the actress' daytime look is both elegant and eccentric — the ideal combination for a fancy (and at times, stuffy) film festival.

Blunt finished the fun look with simple, beachy waves, a bright red lip and some chunky Jimmy Choo heeled sandals in a complementary shade of yellow. Interestingly enough, Blunt was one of the first celebrities to publicly criticize the festival's apparent rule that requires women to wear heels on the red carpet. For what it's worth, we think this dress would be a winner no matter what footwear she paired it with.

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 8:24 AM
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Eddie Borgo Partners with Target on a Totally Customizable Collection

Eddie Borgo Partners with Target on a Totally Customizable Collection:

Photo: Rachel Murray/Getty Images
Photo: Rachel Murray/Getty Images
Target has gradually gotten more insidery in the designers it chooses to collaborate with on limited-edition capsule collections. Before his partnership with the retail giant last year, Joseph Altuzarra was well-loved within fashion circles, but wasn't yet a household name.

The same can be said about jewelry designer Eddie Borgo, who was a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund runner-up in 2010 and the recipient of the CFDA Swarovski Award for accessory design in 2011. He's garnered such a following among editors for his signature cone bracelets that people like Giovanna Battaglia, Kate Lanphear and Lauren Santo Domingo have modeled in his ad campaigns. Now, Borgo's bringing his industry cred to Target, where he's created a line of completely customizable jewelry, accessories and wall art set to hit stores in July.

Shoppers can start with a piece of jewelry or a handbag as a base, then add charms, studs and geometric totems — available in a variety of finishes and materials, including silver, chain and resin — to really make it her own. "I was inspired by the idea of modernizing the 1960s and 1970s craft culture and empowering people to be creative," the designer said in a statement. Borgo is launching his collaboration with a press event Wednesday night in New York, where he'll likely unveil a first look at the full line.

Borgo's collection for Target will range in price from $7.99 - $49.99, and will hit select stores and Target.com beginning on July 12.

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 8:23 AM
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Burberry Focuses on Core Product Amid External Challenges

Burberry Focuses on Core Product Amid External Challenges:

Burberry's spring 2015 campaign
Burberry's spring 2015 campaign
Like many luxury brands, Burberry is dealing with a few pestering challenges within the international retail landscape, like currency fluctuations and decreased travel by Chinese shoppers to Hong Kong, once one of its most successful markets. The British company lowered its 2016 earnings forecast by 40 million pounds ($62 million), and its adjusted pretax profits fell for the first time since 2009 by 1 percent because of exchange rate issues. (Ignoring those, profits rose 7 percent.) Stock in Burberry fell 6 percent upon the news, its steepest decline since Oct. 2014.

While investors probably aren't pleased — an important factor to consider given that this was Christopher Bailey's first full year as CEO of the company — things weren't all bad. Revenue was up 11 percent, led by a 14 percent jump in retail sales.

Product-wise, a newly introduced range of cashmere scarves, which customers can have personalized, was particularly successful. Not unlike those hot-ticket monogrammed ponchos from fall 2015, the scarves were featured prominently in Burberry's spring 2015 ad campaigns and runway show, suggesting that highlighting one grabby product is a marketing tactic that works well for the brand.

As always, trench coats were a top seller over the past year, but this time Burberry decided to simplify its trench coat offering to only three fits and three colors in an effort to "reconnect the customer" to the style, as Bailey put it during an earnings webcast on Wednesday. He also said that the relatively new fragrance My Burberry, with its Kate Moss and Cara Delevingne-led ad campaign, has been a cash cow. Fragrance now represents 95 percent of the company's overall beauty business.

As for how Burberry plans to offset the currency issues hurting its bottom line, the company said it did in fact wind up adjusting prices on certain products like outerwear and handbags in China, Hong Kong and Europe in April, after playing coy with investors on the subject that same month. It's a move that several of its competitors, including Chanel, have also made.

Beyond that, Burberry has been investing heavily in merging online and offline, events in flagship markets (like Los Angeles) and analyzing data on how its customers shop.

Posted by Nelio Inacio at 8:22 AM
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