Tuesday, October 06, 2015

Monse, From Oscar de la Renta Alums Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, Is a Label to Watch

Monse, From Oscar de la Renta Alums Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, Is a Label to Watch:

A look from Monse's debut collection for spring 2016. Photo: Monse
A look from Monse's debut collection for spring 2016. Photo: Monse
Of the more than a dozen designer labels that launched during New York Fashion Week, few were as highly anticipated as Monse. There was, after all, no other first-timer that had already dressed both Amal Clooney and Sarah Jessica Parker before showing a collection, or that had the pedigree of founders (and fiancés) Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, who had spent the last 12 and six years, respectively, working in the studio of Oscar de la Renta. (As studio director, Kim's position at the company was such that she was the one to present de la Renta's final, posthumously completed collection to press last December.)

Monse's fashion week debut did not disappoint. Held on the Saturday afternoon of NYFW at the Norwood Club, Kim and Garcia dedicated the collection to de la Renta; many members of the late designer's family and company were there to show their support. The show opened with a white cotton shirtdress, cut high on the thigh and off-the-shoulder, its "sleeves" knotted loosely over the bust. More shirt dresses followed, reimagined as floor-length dresses (still in white cotton), or cut into two pieces, the shirt budding into cotton flowers in one version, or hung off one shoulder in another. The evening looks were full of glamour but also looked easy to wear, particularly a pajama-style gown in black satin crepe that Selena Gomez was photographed in over the weekend.

It all bore the unmistakable imprint of de la Renta — particularly in the craftsmanship and tailoring, but also in the choice of black-and-ivory striped duchess satin for a number of the formal looks. However, it had a downtown, casual edge that was altogether more youthful. Women who grew up admiring de la Renta, but found his things too formal or unrealistic for daily life, will likely find something in Monse.

Speaking to Kim and Garcia after the show, it was clear just how advanced their thinking about the brand and its future are — one of the many benefits of having worked for a combined 18 years at an established designer's studio, versus starting out on their own immediately after graduation. With the passing of de la Renta in October, the pair said it "felt like the right time" to move on. "We wanted to, at a younger age, figure out who we were and learn everything we could from the company," Garcia said. "We were looking at our future — like in 20 years, will I still be designing under Oscar's DNA or will I find myself?" Kim added.

And so Monse (named after Garcia's mother) was born. Kim and Garcia said they are already thinking about Monse as a lifestyle brand a decade from now, and so for the first collection, they wanted to establish some signatures. "For a new brand, it's hard for people to go to that rack without identifying and relating it to a little bit, so we thought about that and what people are going to recognize," Garcia said. "We wanted to take the idea of a shirt, which everybody owns, make it sexy, make it fun, make it relevant again. Every woman likes a shirtdress, and it's something we always loved, even when we were at Oscar, so it could become sort of DNA for us. We feel strongly about all the clothes that we showed — the color, the stripes, the shirt. That's stuff we believe in for the long-term, for other seasons."

Kim said they're aiming to price the collection in the "opening designer level," starting in the $500-$700 range, with the most expensive evening option running between $4,000 and $4,500. The label is currently funded by friends and family, but Kim said they will be on the lookout for an investor soon.

They shouldn't have much difficulty, especially given the amount of publicity the line has already generated. In addition to Clooney, Parker and Gomez, Monse also dressed former "Mad Men" actress Jessica Paré for the Emmys, landing her spots on Vogue's and WWD's best dressed lists. Garcia was responsible for VIP dressing at de la Renta. "I met the best professionals in the industry when I was there — Erin Walsh, Cristina Ehrlich — and we became such close friends that when we said we were leaving they were the first ones knocking on our doors saying we'll support you."

As for the wedding planning? "We used all our energy on this to be honest," said Kim. Garcia added, laughing, "We'll take it one expensive venture at a time."

Interview conducted by Dhani Mau.

The 9 Biggest Trends from Milan Fashion Week

The 9 Biggest Trends from Milan Fashion Week:

From left to right: Roberto Cavalli, Daizy Shely, Elisabetta Franchi, Prada, and Gucci
From left to right: Roberto Cavalli, Daizy Shely, Elisabetta Franchi, Prada, and Gucci
Excuse us while we make a few Fashion Month generalizations (this is about trend spotting, after all): New York was ready for relaxation. London time-traveled back to the Victorian era. As for Milan? Well, this Italian city had no interest in fitting neatly into any category. There were, however, a few trends that did stand out from the rest. Scroll through to take a look.

Ultrafeminine

From left to right: Francesco Scognamiglio, No. 21, Roberto Cavalli, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, and Gucci
From left to right: Francesco Scognamiglio, No. 21, Roberto Cavalli, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, and Gucci
Milan started off on a light note with extra soft, hyper-feminine looks fitted with silky, gauzy fabrics and more ruffles than anyone probably needs. But since when is fashion about need? These looks fluttered down the catwalk all week.

Broad Bands

From left to right: Blugirl, Cristiano Burani, Blumarine, Daizy Shely, and No. 21
From left to right: Blugirl, Cristiano Burani, Blumarine, Daizy Shely, and No. 21
On the other hand, Milanese fashion is also known for bold statements and colors, and it's not something they forgot about for spring 2016. This was captured easily in the bold stripes streaking across the runways.

Green

From left to right: Versace, Prada, Marni, Sergei Grinko, and Ermanno Scervino
From left to right: Versace, Prada, Marni, Sergei Grinko, and Ermanno Scervino
From forest to military to moss, it was too easy to be green in Milan — the color was practically everywhere.

Under the Sea

From left to right: Fausto Puglisi, Aigner, IM Isola Marras, Sportmax, and Emilio Pucci
From left to right: Fausto Puglisi, Aigner, IM Isola Marras, Sportmax, and Emilio Pucci
Do you remember the nautical theme from the New York shows? Milan managed the same thing, only designers took things a little more literally. Instead of boatnecks and rope, the runways went under the sea with shells, nets and fish.

Cut it Out

From left to right: Fendi, Emporio Armani, DSquared2, Laura Biagiotti, and John Richmond
From left to right: Fendi, Emporio Armani, DSquared2, Laura Biagiotti, and John Richmond
While shoulders are having a peek-a-boo moment, Milan would never miss an opportunity to expose the waist. This was most often achieved through small cutouts in just the right places.

Embellishments

From left to right: Antonio Marras, Fausto Puglisi, Fay, Gucci, and Etro
From left to right: Antonio Marras, Fausto Puglisi, Fay, Gucci, and Etro
Embroidery and embellishments were common sights at shows that embraced maximalism. Not that there's anything wrong with that — this is one trend where you can't help but appreciate the craftsmanship.

Slick Silver

From left to right: Costume National, Aquilano.Rimondi, Philipp Plein, Iceberg, and Genny
From left to right: Costume National, Aquilano.Rimondi, Philipp Plein, Iceberg, and Genny
Bright and metallic silver was a popular choice, appearing on both separates and full-length looks.

Trailing Tassels

From left to right: Damir Doma, Jil Sander, Arthur Arbesser, Salvatore Ferragamo, and Trussardi
From left to right: Damir Doma, Jil Sander, Arthur Arbesser, Salvatore Ferragamo, and Trussardi
This is one that's a bit hard to pin down, but a lot of the exits in Milan left a little something following behind them. Whether it be the remnants of a bow, a tied waist or just a decorative touch, tassels and loose straps trailed on many runways.

Black and White

From left to right: Roberto Cavalli, Elisabetta Franchi, Anteprima, Les Copains, and Byblos
From left to right: Roberto Cavalli, Elisabetta Franchi, Anteprima, Les Copains, and Byblos
Back to basics doesn't always have mean, well, basic. When black and white appeared on the Milan runways, you can be sure that designers made things interesting.

For more spring 2016 trends, click here.

All photos from Imaxtree or from the brand.

Willow Smith Lands Her 1st Official Modeling Contract

Willow Smith Lands Her 1st Official Modeling Contract:

Photo: i-D 
Photo: i-D 
If you think about the current modeling industry landscape, a couple of things come to mind. First, it's all about the teens: Hailey Baldwin, Bella Hadid, Kendall Jenner, Molly Bair — a good portion of the buzziest (and the most social media-savvy) names on the scene are still in their teenage years, making them the perfect spokespeople for a younger generation of consumers. Second, a handful of genetically blessed families are taking over, from the aforementioned Hadids and Jenners to the Waterhouses, the Delevingnes and the Smiths — two of them, to be exact. Lucky Blue and Pyper America Smith (both also teenagers) have made huge debuts this season, as well as party fixture Jaden and songstress Willow Smith, who are young, hip, multitalented and, obviously, extremely good looking.

Now, the latter fact is about to make 14-year-old Willow Smith even more famous. On Tuesday, The Society Management — the modeling agency who represents the likes of Jenner, Bair, Natalie Westling, Josephine Skriver and more — announced that it has officially signed Smith to its development board. Considering the fact that she's already well-loved by editors (she's appeared in i-D, Wonderland, CR Fashion Book and T) and is receiving a ton of buzz for her new musical releases, we're thinking this partnership will be a very lucrative one.

Stylist Karen Kaiser Is Looking For Interns To Start Immediately In NYC

Stylist Karen Kaiser Is Looking For Interns To Start Immediately In NYC: Stylist Karen Kaiser is looking for interns ASAP to help in both editorial projects and advertising campaigns. Having previously worked as the International Fashion Director for Interview Russia, she now contributes regularly to Vogue US, Vogue.com, Interview US, Dior magazine, Baja East, Coach, ...

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Must Read: Kate Moss is Now an Interior Designer, David Beckham Has Strong Feelings About Daughter Harper's Hair

Must Read: Kate Moss is Now an Interior Designer, David Beckham Has Strong Feelings About Daughter Harper's Hair:

Photo: Stuart C. Wilson/Getty Images
Photo: Stuart C. Wilson/Getty Images
These are the stories making headlines this Tuesday.

Kate Moss turns her eyes towards interior design.

Kate Moss can now add another bullet point to her lofty résumé: interior designer. In an interview with The Sunday Times, the 41-year-old supermodel unveiled The Barnhouse, a rural home that she recently spent six months decorating. The five-bedroom house, which is set upon 650 acres of land and is a 90-minute drive from London, comes with a hefty price tag of £2.5 million (roughly $3.7 million) — so don't get your heart set on moving in anytime soon. {The Sunday Times}

David Beckham refuses to let anyone cut daughter Harper's hair.

During an interview promoting his Modern Essentials campaign for H&M, David Beckham shared an adorable, albeit intriguing detail about his four-year-old daughter Harper's hair — namely, that he refuses to let anyone cut it. His hair policy can simply be summed up as "Do. Not. Touch." Heard you, loud and clear. {Yahoo! Style}

Lululemon opens its first store in the Middle East.

As part of a plan to open 15 to 20 stores total in the Middle East, activewear company Lululemon opened its very first retail space in the Mall of the Emirates today. The company is looking to open two more in Dubai in early 2016, and has already chosen five athlete ambassadors in Dubai. {WWD}

Lena Dunham interviews Hillary Clinton for her first newsletter.

In Lena Dunham's first Lenny Letter — a feminist newsletter created by Dunham and her "Girls" Co-Creator, Jenni Konner — Dunham interviewed Hillary Clinton. Their interview consisted of a number of crucial topics, including (but not limited to): college debt, college memories and the cold-shoulder Donna Karan dress she wore for a White House event in 1993. {Lenny}

Gigi Hadid receives words of encouragement from her model friends and colleagues.

After addressing her body-shamers in an Instagram note, Gigi Hadid opened up to Vogue about the reaction and support she received from friends. "I honestly broke down," she told the magazine. "I started crying at the multiple text messages I got today from everyone, from Victoria's Secret models to plus-size models to people like Tyra Banks, who posted [the Instagram letter] and who is someone I've looked up to for my entire life." {Vogue}

Giorgio Armani talks succession.

Giorgio Armani may be 81, but succession seems to be the last thing on the iconic designer's mind. After showing his spring 2016 collection in Milan on Monday, Armani told reporters: "While I'm alive, there will be independence." {Business of Fashion}

Molly Bair tells us about her beauty routine, and how she was discovered in a New York City flea market.

In her latest interview, buzzy young model Molly Bair describes her beauty routine — or more accurately, lack thereof. Here's a list of what she uses on a daily basis: moisturizer, ointment for lips, eyedrops, hand sanitizer and concealer. Finally! Someone who sounds like a normal 18-year-old. {Into the Gloss}

WeWork is suing The Lucky Group over custom-built, unused New York City office space.

While The Lucky Group and its now-defunct magazine arm Lucky shuttered in June, the media company remains in hot water with WeWork, a company that both leases and designs customized office spaces. WeWork is reportedly suing The Lucky Group for not paying rent on their own custom-built office in New York City’s Chelsea neighborhood, which remains unused and was part of a 24-month membership agreement, signed in Dec. 2014. {The Real Deal}

Mackenzie Davis is All Buttoned-Up in Balenciaga

Mackenzie Davis is All Buttoned-Up in Balenciaga:

Photo: Laura Cavanaugh/Getty Images
Photo: Laura Cavanaugh/Getty Images
Clothing-wise, the press tour for upcoming film "The Martian" has been a solid, if not mind-blowing one. Kate Mara's Valentino and Dior looks have been consistently good, and co-star Kristen Wiig, whom we'll always give the benefit of the doubt, has generally been cute as a button. Neil deGrasse Tyson also turned up to the movie's New York Film Festival premiere on Monday wearing one of his signature vests in a groovy cosmic print, which was festive.

Aside from Dr. Tyson, there was another attendee who truly stuck the landing. That would be Mackenzie Davis, the 28-year-old actress you may know from "That Awkward Moment," an enjoyable but objectively flat Zac Efron movie, or perhaps the front row of Marc Jacobs's most recent runway show. Her Balenciaga resort look was equal parts tidy (buttons; perfunctory strappy sandals) and romantic (that lace! wayward hair!). Not visually challenging, but totally pleasing.

While that wonderful dress pretty much styles itself, the choice feels like a harbinger of more good things to come. Davis, we're watching you.

3 Things That Got Our Attention on Day 1 of Paris Fashion Week

3 Things That Got Our Attention on Day 1 of Paris Fashion Week:

Designer Simon Porte Jacquemus leading a horse across his show space on Tuesday. Photo: Imaxtree
Designer Simon Porte Jacquemus leading a horse across his show space on Tuesday. Photo: Imaxtree
Guests walked into the first of the Paris Fashion Week shows with a weary tread. Many editors, having seen shows earlier that day in Milan — or who flew in overnight from New York — were clearly fogged arriving at Anthony Vaccarrello's show on Tuesday afternoon; many others won't arrive until later in the week. Perhaps knowing this, designers who presented collections on Tuesday upped the performance element of their shows. Here's what caught our attention.

1. Jacquemus's horse-and-ball performance art

Looks from Jacquemus's spring 2016 collection show. Photos: Imaxtree
Looks from Jacquemus's spring 2016 collection show. Photos: Imaxtree
Simon Porte of Jacquemus is no stranger to the effects a bit of theater can add to a collection's buzz; last season, the self-taught LVMH "Special Prize" winner drew some wagging fingers for showing excessive nudity on the runway. On Tuesday evening, the designer brought industry members to a large tent space, where a ring of seats was arranged around a single spotlight. The show opened not with a model, but with a young girl — his cousin — in an oversized oxford shirt pushing an enormous ball of red cloth; she appeared again later, stumbling as she pulled a giant red necktie across the space. In another interlude, the designer, barefoot, led out a magnificent white horse. In between were the clothes: deconstructed suiting cut into quarters or halves and reassembled asymmetrically in a palette of navy, red, black, white and grey. We liked the flattening effect of a short white dress folded like paper, and Jacquemus's signature bright circles pinned to coat lapels and shirt sleeves. Still, it was the performance bits that had people talking.

2. Anthony Vaccarello's adventurous slits

Looks from Anthony Vaccarello's spring 2016 collection show. Photos: Imaxtree
Looks from Anthony Vaccarello's spring 2016 collection show. Photos: Imaxtree
Anthony Vaccarello is known for his sexy designs — that, and his superb tailoring were among the reasons Donatella Versace tapped him to head up the Versus Versace line, shown in London less than two weeks ago. The military-inspired spring 2016 collection he showed for his own label on Tuesday showed a lot of leg, taking the conventional thigh-high slit and moving it further up the hip, widening it and showing much more skin (and no, the models were not wearing underwear). All 0f that exposure made a white and porcelain blue oxford paired with jeans the most surprising look.

3. Anrealage's illusory reflections

Looks from Anrealage's spring 2016 collection show. Photos: Imaxtree
Looks from Anrealage's spring 2016 collection show. Photos: Imaxtree
Jacquemus wasn't the only one to invest in show theatrics this season. Arriving at Anrealage's show on Tuesday, guests were instructed to don a pair of headphones, turn on the flash of their mobile phones and take pictures as the clothes moved around the square-shaped runway inside the Palais de Tokyo. The theme was "reflect," and when the flash of hundreds of phones went off, the kaleidoscopic patterns on Anrealage's mostly white clothes were revealed. The shapes were kaleidoscopic too: dresses were cut in half so that the skirt was a perfect mirror of the top, and shirt fronts were arranged into fourths to form wide, squarish dresses. The theme was carried to the shoes, which had double soles that made the models look like were walking on a reflective surface, and to the handbags and the earrings, which hung in doubles. Between these more conceptual offerings were real clothes: feminine shirtdresses in white and grey, and dressy rompers and jumpsuits with cape sleeves. During the finale, the lights went off, showing that the clothes were not only reflective, but glowed in the dark. It was gimmicky, maybe, but it held our attention the whole way through.

See Every Look from Maison Margiela's Spring 2016 Collection

See Every Look from Maison Margiela's Spring 2016 Collection:

A look from Maison Margiela's spring 2016 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
A look from Maison Margiela's spring 2016 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
Before John Galliano showed his second ready-to-wear collection for Maison Margiela on Wednesday, a man in a suit and plastic gloves got down on his hands and knees and rubbed the footprints out of the brushed metal runway before the photographers' pit. It was painstaking work; he was sweating. It was a well-timed reminder of just how much sweat had gone into the making of the show: the white felt carpet leading across the Tuileries into the show space transformed for the occasion; the careful placement of buyers and press by publicists in white coats; the fantastical beauty looks soon to be revealed — and, of course, the collection itself.

The clothes Galliano debuted on Wednesday were labeled ready-to-wear, but they could have passed for couture — and they certainly offered a commentary on, if not a downright parody of, that craft. The first model walked out in a matted green beehive and silvery eye makeup (c/o Pat McGrath), a cream-colored coat with a leopard collar, a single crystal earring, a misshapen version of Hermès's Kelly bag and chic pointed-toe shoes: all the trappings of golden age French couture and totally madcap. The looks that followed, spanning decades of fashionable silhouettes, were willfully distorted, exaggerated or ruined: many of the backs were smeared with paint, as if the models had accidentally leaned against a freshly painted surface in their finery; others were torn, revealing the padding underneath, or held in tact by cellophane. The introduction of male models partway through the lineup, as well as small shoulder bags tied around the bust, added to the sense of unreality. These were rich and glamorous — but mad — women (and men) in the spirit of Blanche DuBois, Miss Havisham and Edith Bouvier Beale — whom Galliano has celebrated many times before.

It's perhaps because Galliano continues to be fascinated with many of the same muses and themes that he has begun to feel like a designer of a past age. This was something Lauren Sherman touched upon last season in a piece titled, "Is there a place for John Galliano in a world run by Alexander Wang?" We know now that ugly can be beautiful; the stuffing has already been taken out of couture. A new generation of designers is tackling a host of fresh challenges — defining the look of contemporary, questioning preconceived gender boundaries, discovering how a young generation of women want to present themselves. As Sherman pointed out at the time, it's surprising to know that Galliano's successor at Dior, Raf Simons, is only seven years younger; they seem a generation apart.

Still, it makes Galliano's designs no less thrilling, and Wednesday's show was the most exciting we've seen in Paris thus far. And even though photographers cried out his name at the end of the show, Galliano, in keeping with the Margiela tradition, once again did not take a bow.

Cult Favorite Accessories Label Madison Harding Launches Ready-to-Wear

Cult Favorite Accessories Label Madison Harding Launches Ready-to-Wear:

Photo: Ben Rayner for Madison Harding
Photo: Ben Rayner for Madison Harding
The community of creative folks in downtown New York has long been revered (and copied) for its unique, authentic sense of style, which is why so many cool clothing and accessories brands, however small, emerge from the area. One such label is Madison Harding, founded in 2007 by Barri Budin and Hilary Koyfman (who has since left the company), which has garnered a loyal following among editors and bloggers for its vintage-inspired footwear.

Over the past year, Madison Harding has made some major changes to its business model — specifically, moving from wholesale to direct-to-consumer, allowing it to lower prices without sacrificing quality. In addition, the team has focused on building out its brand messaging through social media and editorial content on its website, which features collaborations with like-minded locals including stylist Stevie Dance, photographer Petra Collins and editorial manicurist Madeline Poole. This led to a more organic connection between the brand and its customers, who were hungry for categories beyond footwear. After experimenting with a small capsule collection of handbags, the label started working on a tightly edited range of clothing, which officially debuts this week.

Budin, the brand's co-founder and creative director, says that she's consistently inspired by interesting, independent women with eclectic personal style —  the same demographic she's aiming to dress. "They mix high and low — they're not label whores; they follow fashion, but they're not slaves to fashion," she explains. The retro inspiration that frequently appears on the brand's Instagram and in the shoe collections comes from Budin's personal tastes as well. "I have always shopped vintage... it was an easy way for me to be creative and build my own look in a more affordable way, which is sort of the reason why we started the business to begin with."

Though small, the first Madison Harding clothing collection is well-rounded, made up of dresses, rompers, skirts and tops in velvet, knit and lace that can be mixed and matched with denim, vintage T-shirts or professional silk blouses for the office. There's a distinct '70s vibe as well — something that's been part of the brand's DNA from day one — and the decade's prevalence on recent runways makes the timing of the launch seem just right. "I will always connect to [the '70s], probably because I was born in that decade and also because it speaks to me," Budin says. "It's kind of raunchy, the silhouettes are awesome. Now that it's kind of a 'thing,' I'll take it! It’s helpful for sure, and I think it's gotten us more attention."

A "Cruel Intentions"-inspired lookbook showcases the subtly sexy line, which is priced between $68 and $165. As for the biggest challenges in branching out from accessories, Budin admits that she obsessed over the fit, making sure every piece could work together (and with all of her shoes) and represent the brand in a way that didn't seem cliché. "It's modern but it has an essence of vintage," she says. "[Conveying] that wasn't easy, but I think we did it pretty well."

The Madison Harding collection is available to shop on the brand's website now; click through the gallery below to browse the fall lookbook, produced by Chrissie Miller.

See Every Look from Lemaire's Spring 2016 Collection

See Every Look from Lemaire's Spring 2016 Collection:

A look from Lemaire's spring 2016 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
A look from Lemaire's spring 2016 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
On Wednesday, Christophe Lemaire showed another chic, clean collection for the luxurious namesake line he designs with Sara Linh Tran. See the full collection below, and check back later for our review.

Homepage Photo: Imaxtree

Blake Lively Will Shut Down Preserve (With Plans to Make it Better)

Blake Lively Will Shut Down Preserve (With Plans to Make it Better):

Blake Lively. Photo: Jamie McCarthy/Getty Images
Blake Lively. Photo: Jamie McCarthy/Getty Images
When Blake Lively announced the launch of her lifestyle website/e-shop, Preserve, in the summer of last year, there was the inevitable backlash that comes with a celebrity taking on a new business venture, let alone one that sells artisanal ketchup. So when the actress announced Wednesday morning via Vogue.com that she'll be shutting down Preserve, we were not entirely surprised. Her explanation:

We have an incredible team of people who do beautiful work, but we launched the site before it was ready, and it never caught up to its original mission: It's not making a difference in people's lives, whether superficially or in a meaningful way.
In June, Lively did admit in an interview with Time that the site was launched prematurely — to coincide with the promotion of her August Vogue 2014 cover — and didn't meet her expectations. "If I had my dream, I'd put it on hold for six months or a year and then relaunch it," she told Time, which is exactly what she's doing. On Oct. 9, the website will shut down so that Lively can rejigger and revamp it into what she's always wanted Preserve to be.

We reached out to the Preserve team for comment but have not yet heard back. Lively was tight-lipped with Vogue.com on exact details or plans for when the site will go live again and what she'll come back with. In the meantime, you can snag items from Preserve's remaining inventory on sale. (There's also a discount promo code on the homepage.) You can shop clothes, accessories and home goods on the site, but unfortunately, there are still no actual preserves to be found.

See Every Look from Dries Van Noten's Spring 2016 Collection

See Every Look from Dries Van Noten's Spring 2016 Collection:

A look from Dries Van Noten's spring 2016 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
A look from Dries Van Noten's spring 2016 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
The spring 2016 collections won't arrive in stores for six more months, and already I'm extremely tired of deconstructed blazers and white shirts — just about every designer has decided that this is the season to do it.

And so it was nice to arrive at Dries van Noten's show Wednesday and see clothes that hadn't been torn apart and re-sewn, or hanging off one shoulder. Accompanied by a string quartet positioned center stage, models walked out in familiar clothes with a retro feel, aided by '40ish rolled hair and cat-eye sunglasses. There were bustier tops and dresses, high-waisted skirts and pants, and strong-shouldered blazers and coats that allowed van Noten's riotous interplay of color, print and embroidery to seize the focus. In his show notes, van Noten described the collection as "flamboyant, bold, impulsive, vivacious, observant, infatuated, jubilant, kinky, fearless, flirtatious" — but there was a tongue-in-cheek approach to the sexiness, the way the bustier tops were styled over flesh-tone turtlenecks that looked as if they'd been inked in henna, the sexy pencil skirts fluffed up with big, girlish bows.

In the end, it was hard to pick out which pieces were highlights — at the risk of sounding too effusive, van Noten has a way of making nearly every piece feel special. We were taken by the high-waisted trousers, done first in a rich peacock blue and gold silk jacquard, and then in grey with fuschia birds' feathers; printed silk dresses with sheer overlays that hung simply from the shoulders before fanning into curtains of tulle; a grey grid-print coat embroidered with hot pink feathers; and towards the end, a series of blouses and narrow midi skirts with sinuous ruffles sweeping down the fronts. Platform sandals were the shoe style of choice, done in fabrics and sequin embroideries that harmonized with the clothes.

Feast your eyes below.

Homepage photo: Imaxtree

WOW Cindy Crawford Wants to 'Preserve' Her Daughter's Childhood, Cos to Open 2nd New York Store

Must Read: Cindy Crawford Wants to 'Preserve' Her Daughter's Childhood, Cos to Open 2nd New York Store:

Kaia Gerber and Cindy Crawford. Photo: Anthony Kwan/Getty Images
Kaia Gerber and Cindy Crawford. Photo: Anthony Kwan/Getty Images
These are the stories making headlines this Wednesday.

Cos's second store will open on Friday, Oct. 16.

Scandinavian, H&M-owned clothing label Cos has confirmed it will open its second New York store at 505 Fifth Avenue on Oct. 16. The store will house both menswear and womenswear and will be located near New York landmarks such as the Public Library and Central Park. {Fashionista Inbox}

Cindy Crawford chats with daughter Kaia Gerber.

In the latest "Possible Conversations," Cindy Crawford and daughter Kaia Gerber discuss a range of topics, including Crawford's new book, the role of social media and Gerber's budding modeling career. Regarding the latter, the OG supermodel had this to say to her daughter: "I can provide a road map and help you make good choices. But we also want to preserve your childhood and let you be a 14-year-old when you're 14. There's no rush." Aww, mom! {The Thick}

Gucci gets glowing reviews from retailers.While New York Fashion Week left some buyers and retailers dissatisfied, it seems as though the opposite can be said of Milan, especially in regards to Gucci's spring 2016 collection. From Linda Fargo of Bergdorf Goodman to Jennifer Wheeler of Nordstrom, retailers responded very strongly to Alessandro Michele's "joy of a collection" for Gucci. {WWD}

Neiman Marcus might hold off on an IPO.

Rumors are swirling as to whether Neiman Marcus will hold off on its initial public offering due to the current nature of the stock market. (China devalued the yuan less than a week after the retailer filed paperwork for an IPO on Aug. 4th.) While nothing's confirmed, it wouldn't be the first time that the retailer has held off on an IPO: in 2013, Neiman Marcus filed the papers, but the company was sold instead. {WWD}

Chanel purchases Gabrielle Chanel's villa.

On Wednesday, Chanel announced the purchase of La Pause, Gabrielle Chanel's villa in the south of France. The designer purchased the land in 1928 and finished construction of the villa in 1930. The villa has hosted famous guests like Salvador Dali, Winston Churchill, Greta Garbo and Jacqueline Onassis. {WWD}

Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott shoot the October issue of Vogue Italia.
Vogue Italia has tapped photographers Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott to shoot the entire October issue. Titled "youth," the very minimal, hip cover features close-ups of models Estella Boersma and Aidan Walsh. We're very curious to see what comes of this new makeover. {Vogue Italia}

What We Learned in a Day Spent With Cindy Crawford

What We Learned in a Day Spent With Cindy Crawford:

Cindy Crawford and her new book. Photo: John Lamparski/Getty Images
Cindy Crawford and her new book. Photo: John Lamparski/Getty Images
Cindy Crawford, that most superlative of supermodels, just released a memoir called "Becoming by Cindy Crawford." To get the word out, she's been running from nighttime talk show to morning talk show to personal appearance for the past week, and intrepid reporters/Cindy stans Chantal and Cheryl respectively caught up with her at two events on Tuesday: A small book signing at Rizzoli in New York City in the morning, and her talk with Fern Mallis at the 92nd Street Y that evening. Here's everything we learned.

MORNING CINDY:

Reading Cindy Crawford's book with my new succulent. Photo: Cheryl Wischhover's iPhone/Fashionista
Reading Cindy Crawford's book with my new succulent. Photo: Cheryl Wischhover's iPhone/Fashionista
A group of beauty editors got to hear about a newlaunch coming from Meaningful Beauty, the skin care line Crawford has with her longtime dermatologist, Dr. Sebagh. More importantly, though, she was there to introduce her book, the publication of which coincides with her 50th birthday. "A couple different people in my life had been trying to get me to do a book for the last 10 years and I was like, 'I don’t want to do a workout and beauty tips book,'" Crawford said to the group. "This idea of 50 iconic images married to 50 essays about the lessons learned along the way, to celebrate turning — and I can't believe I'm saying this — 50."

For anyone into '90s nostalgia and/or really gorgeous photography, this book is for you. Crawford breaks down the book by photographer and life stage, recounting memories and life lessons along the way. Sample prose: "My very first paying job was a newspaper ad for Marshall Field's wearing some kind of Cross Your Heart bra. It appeared in the Chicago Tribune and within hours was plastered all over my high school... I had made $150. Modeling sure beat working in the cornfields."

Crawford was kind enough to sign a book for me, and even pose for a selfie, though you will not see it here because it was hideous. "Do you think the light is okay here?" she asked me dubiously. Listen to Cindy Crawford when she has doubts about the light! While she looked great, I decidedly did not. That picture has gone deep into the ether, never to be seen again. But here's the conversation we had:

Fashionista: What was the best piece of advice you got from someone in the fashion industry that translates to real life?

Cindy Crawford: I talk about  how Richard Avedon would say, "Have a thought in your head when you're looking at the camera." So it's not just a blank stare — your eyes are saying something. That doesn't really translate to real life, although everyone does selfies now so maybe it would.

Did you have one go-to thought you would use?

I had a couple. There was one photographer in Chicago [more on that below] who was my main mentor, but when I left for New York he wasn't that enthusiastic about it. I had this thought like "Take that! I guess I did make it in New York after all!"

I know your daughter is starting to dabble in modeling. Does she want your advice?

About that one thing? Yes. She knows that I know what I'm talking about. But at the same time so much has changed. I know that I don't know everything about what's happening right now. For instance, when I was in my prime, Victoria's Secret didn't have the status that it has now. So I'm trying to learn to help guide her. I know so many great people, so the few little things that I've let her do, I know everyone on set so I know she's going to be okay.

Do you think we're in a new era of supermodels? You guys were it, then there was anonymity, but now there is Karlie, Kendall and Gigi.

I think so. I think this crop of women — basically everyone in the "Bad Blood" video and a few more —  are incredible. And they're pretty sophisticated working with social media. Part of the reason for their popularity is that they're able to let their personalities be known through their own posting. They're not dependent on other people for how they're going to be presented.

So how was it working in the "Bad Blood" video anyway? Did you feel like the den mom?

I was there on green screen sadly. I probably would have felt like the den mother, but they brought me in afterwards. Taylor [Swift] wasn't even there when I shot it. But I was happy to be a part of it and my kids thought it was really cool that I even got asked. --Cheryl Wischhover

EVENING CINDY: 

Cindy Crawford and Fern Mallis. Photo: 92nd Street Y
Cindy Crawford and Fern Mallis. Photo: 92nd Street Y
Interviewer Fern Mallis wasn't the only person at the 92nd Street Y proudly wearing one of The Reformation's rereleased "Cindy Crawford" sweatshirts. Mallis had so much to discuss with supermodel that the interview went way over the series' typical hour run time. Read on for the best quotes.

Photographer Victor Skrebneski's parting words for her when she left Chicago for New York: "Victor told me that I didn't have an easy face to photograph and that he was the only one who knew how to make me look good. And I was young, I was 19 and part of me believed that... I realize he probably said it and never thought about it again and it was like being branded. I'll even say it to this day to a photographer, 'You know my face isn't that easy to photograph,' and they're like 'What?'"

On hosting MTV's "House of Style": "My agents were like, 'Why are you wasting your time doing this little show?' But it seemed fun and it seemed different and I liked it because I got a chance to — much in the way models now can use social media to have their own [voice] — I was able to do that a little bit with "House of Style." I did it for seven years and I was like, I can't go shopping with one more rock star, I'm done."

On her longtime relationship with photographer Herb Ritts: There are so many models that you think of — Steven Meisel and Linda Evangelista, you know, or Peter Lindbergh and Tatjana Patitz — they really photographed the same women over and over and I never really felt like I had that but in doing this book I realized I did have it with Herb.

On her controversial Vanity Fair cover with k.d. lang:

"[Herb Ritts said] 'I need you as a prop. I need you to be straddling her while you're shaving her in a barber chair.' Back then I don't think I even had a publicist, it was just my friend Herb calling me to be a prop in a photoshoot and I didn't really think about it. Doing that made me realize that people sometimes don't get the joke or take images literally and really k.d. was making a statement... It made me realize that images do have power and I needed to make sure that what I was saying in my images was what I wanted to be saying."

Her thoughts on plastic surgery: "Not only my job but in our society, everyone else is doing it — do I need to do it? But then you see some people and think, Well, I don't want to end up looking like that so is it better to look old? I'm still trying to figure that out, I guess, where I personally want to draw that line."

What's next for her career? "I didn't know it at the time but in some way [writing the book] is the end of a chapter of my life. People are like, 'Are you still going to model?' And to me, if I get my picture taken, that's modeling. If I have to get my hair and makeup done, that's modeling. So I'm going to continue to do that for Meaningful Beauty and my furniture line but I do think that I've finally realized I don't really have to prove anything in terms of the fashion modeling part of my life any more. But then I said to my husband, 'What am I going to do when this book's over?' It's taken up so much time over the last two years and I love working. I like being busy, so I don't know. Something."--Chantal Fernandez

Paris Fashion Week Street Style Day 1: Quilty Tops and Brisk Winds

Paris Fashion Week Street Style Day 1: Quilty Tops and Brisk Winds:

Quilty cool tops on the street in Paris. Photos: Imaxtree, Emily Malan/Fashionista, Imaxtree
Quilty cool tops on the street in Paris. Photos: Imaxtree, Emily Malan/Fashionista, Imaxtree
Welcome to Paris, where Fashion Week kicked off with brisk winds that threatened the picture-perfect, nonchalant poses of even the most seasoned (pun intended) street style stars. It turns out the best remedy for annoying gusts of hair-whipping air were quilt-like fabrics that are soft and lightweight while also providing a measure of homespun coziness — even in the form of Vogue Australia's Christine Centenera's ruffled, micro-flower covered dress (above left).

Check out our favorite street style looks from day one of Paris below, and see the rest of our favorite looks from the past month here.  

Diane Kruger Shows Us How to Style a Busy Print

Diane Kruger Shows Us How to Style a Busy Print:

Diane Kruger wearing Preen at the Fashion 4 Development's 5th Annual First Ladies Luncheon in New York City. Photo: Neilson Barnard/Getty Images
Diane Kruger wearing Preen at the Fashion 4 Development's 5th Annual First Ladies Luncheon in New York City. Photo: Neilson Barnard/Getty Images
Diane Kruger was one of the fashionable attendees at Fashion 4 Development's 5th Annual First Ladies Luncheon on Monday afternoon in New York City, which gathered First Ladies, fashion industry insiders, political leaders and diplomats from around the world to honor some of fashion's biggest names — Victoria Beckham, Naomi Campbell — for their philanthropic work.

For the special event, Kruger stuck to one of her favorite brands, Preen, choosing a playfully printed dress with ruffled trim and brightly colored stitching from the label's fall 2015 collection, one of our favorites at London Fashion Week back in February. (At the Venice Film Festival earlier this month, Kruger wore a frock from Preen's resort 2016 collection.)

Although Preen toned down its usual mix of prints and colors for spring 2016, we're happy that we still have the fall and winter to take advantage of the London line's signature hodgepodge aesthetic. And Kruger's simplistic sensibilities always prevent her go-to Preen ensembles from looking too over the top. Here, she grounds her look with a structured Mark Cross bag and lace-up black booties. A solid style choice for ladies who lunch if we do say so ourselves.

Pat McGrath Launches Her First Beauty Product...Gold Dust

Pat McGrath Launches Her First Beauty Product...Gold Dust:

Backstage at Prada. Photo: Imaxtree
Backstage at Prada. Photo: Imaxtree
Prada's spring 2016 runway show last week brought with it a very fun beauty look: baby bangs plastered to the models' foreheads and gold-painted lips accenting an otherwise bare face. On Tuesday, we received a press release from the office of Pat McGrath, the hotshot makeup artist who creates the makeup look for the fashion house, explaining that the gold product at hand was a "mysterious, high-impact, rich, metallic pigment."

"Adding another layer of mystery, backstage at the show McGrath neither confirmed nor denied that the mysterious pigment was a creation of hers," the release reads. "We'll just have to wait and see."

That question was answered on Wednesday. As it turns out, the gold dust was indeed McGrath's original creation, formally titled "Gold 001." With its debut, McGrath has also launched a new website for "Pat McGrath Labs," which isn't much of anything at the moment, though you can sign up to get email updates on its progress. To further hype Gold 001, which goes on sale later this month, McGrath and her 35-person team have been giving free makeovers to model pals and willing Parisians in the Tuileries, faithfully documented by Vogue.com.

The big question, of course, is whether this means McGrath is leaving her post as the global creative director of Proctor & Gamble. In response to that question, the makeup artist's PR team wrote via email that her "work as an industry leader and creative director will continue." Vague. Our guess is that McGrath is finally turning her massive influence in the beauty industry into her own venture.

John Galliano Rips the Seams Out of Couture for Maison Margiela Spring 2016

John Galliano Rips the Seams Out of Couture for Maison Margiela Spring 2016:

A look from Maison Margiela's spring 2016 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
A look from Maison Margiela's spring 2016 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
Before John Galliano showed his second ready-to-wear collection for Maison Margiela on Wednesday, a man in a suit and plastic gloves got down on his hands and knees and rubbed the footprints out of the brushed metal runway before the photographers' pit. It was painstaking work; he was sweating. It was a well-timed reminder of just how much sweat had gone into the making of the show: the white felt carpet leading across the Tuileries into the show space transformed for the occasion; the careful placement of buyers and press by publicists in white coats; the fantastical beauty looks soon to be revealed — and, of course, the collection itself.

The clothes Galliano debuted on Wednesday were labeled ready-to-wear, but they could have passed for couture — and they certainly offered a commentary on, if not a downright parody of, that craft. The first model walked out in a matted green beehive and silvery eye makeup (c/o Pat McGrath), a cream-colored coat with a leopard collar, a single crystal earring, a misshapen version of Hermès's Kelly bag and chic pointed-toe shoes: all the trappings of golden age French couture and totally madcap. The looks that followed, spanning decades of fashionable silhouettes, were willfully distorted, exaggerated or ruined: many of the backs were smeared with paint, as if the models had accidentally leaned against a freshly painted surface in their finery; others were torn, revealing the padding underneath, or held in tact by cellophane. The introduction of male models partway through the lineup, as well as small shoulder bags tied around the bust, added to the sense of unreality. These were rich and glamorous — but mad — women (and men) in the spirit of Blanche DuBois, Miss Havisham and Edith Bouvier Beale — whom Galliano has celebrated many times before.

It's perhaps because Galliano continues to be fascinated with many of the same muses and themes that he has begun to feel like a designer of a past age. This was something Lauren Sherman touched upon last season in a piece titled, "Is there a place for John Galliano in a world run by Alexander Wang?" We know now that ugly can be beautiful; the stuffing has already been taken out of couture. A new generation of designers is tackling a host of fresh challenges — defining the look of contemporary, questioning preconceived gender boundaries, discovering how a young generation of women want to present themselves. As Sherman pointed out at the time, it's surprising to know that Galliano's successor at Dior, Raf Simons, is only seven years younger; they seem a generation apart.

Still, it makes Galliano's designs no less thrilling, and Wednesday's show was the most exciting we've seen in Paris thus far. And even though photographers cried out his name at the end of the show, Galliano, in keeping with the Margiela tradition, once again did not take a bow.

John Galliano Rips the Seams Out of Couture for Maison Margiela Spring 2016

John Galliano Rips the Seams Out of Couture for Maison Margiela Spring 2016:

A look from Maison Margiela's spring 2016 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
A look from Maison Margiela's spring 2016 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
Before John Galliano showed his second ready-to-wear collection for Maison Margiela on Wednesday, a man in a suit and plastic gloves got down on his hands and knees and rubbed the footprints out of the brushed metal runway before the photographers' pit. It was painstaking work; he was sweating. It was a well-timed reminder of just how much sweat had gone into the making of the show: the white felt carpet leading across the Tuileries into the show space transformed for the occasion; the careful placement of buyers and press by publicists in white coats; the fantastical beauty looks soon to be revealed — and, of course, the collection itself.

The clothes Galliano debuted on Wednesday were labeled ready-to-wear, but they could have passed for couture — and they certainly offered a commentary on, if not a downright parody of, that craft. The first model walked out in a matted green beehive and silvery eye makeup (c/o Pat McGrath), a cream-colored coat with a leopard collar, a single crystal earring, a misshapen version of Hermès's Kelly bag and chic pointed-toe shoes: all the trappings of golden age French couture and totally madcap. The looks that followed, spanning decades of fashionable silhouettes, were willfully distorted, exaggerated or ruined: many of the backs were smeared with paint, as if the models had accidentally leaned against a freshly painted surface in their finery; others were torn, revealing the padding underneath, or held in tact by cellophane. The introduction of male models partway through the lineup, as well as small shoulder bags tied around the bust, added to the sense of unreality. These were rich and glamorous — but mad — women (and men) in the spirit of Blanche DuBois, Miss Havisham and Edith Bouvier Beale — whom Galliano has celebrated many times before.

It's perhaps because Galliano continues to be fascinated with many of the same muses and themes that he has begun to feel like a designer of a past age. This was something Lauren Sherman touched upon last season in a piece titled, "Is there a place for John Galliano in a world run by Alexander Wang?" We know now that ugly can be beautiful; the stuffing has already been taken out of couture. A new generation of designers is tackling a host of fresh challenges — defining the look of contemporary, questioning preconceived gender boundaries, discovering how a young generation of women want to present themselves. As Sherman pointed out at the time, it's surprising to know that Galliano's successor at Dior, Raf Simons, is only seven years younger; they seem a generation apart.

Still, it makes Galliano's designs no less thrilling, and Wednesday's show was the most exciting we've seen in Paris thus far. And even though photographers cried out his name at the end of the show, Galliano, in keeping with the Margiela tradition, once again did not take a bow.

Dries van Noten's Flamboyant Prints Take a Sexy Turn for Spring 2016

Dries van Noten's Flamboyant Prints Take a Sexy Turn for Spring 2016:

A look from Dries Van Noten's spring 2016 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
A look from Dries Van Noten's spring 2016 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
The spring 2016 collections won't arrive in stores for six more months, and already I'm extremely tired of deconstructed blazers and white shirts — just about every designer has decided that this is the season to do it.

And so it was nice to arrive at Dries van Noten's show Wednesday and see clothes that hadn't been torn apart and re-sewn, or hanging off one shoulder. Accompanied by a string quartet positioned center stage, models walked out in familiar clothes with a retro feel, aided by '40ish rolled hair and cat-eye sunglasses. There were bustier tops and dresses, high-waisted skirts and pants, and strong-shouldered blazers and coats that allowed van Noten's riotous interplay of color, print and embroidery to seize the focus. In his show notes, van Noten described the collection as "flamboyant, bold, impulsive, vivacious, observant, infatuated, jubilant, kinky, fearless, flirtatious" — but there was a tongue-in-cheek approach to the sexiness, the way the bustier tops were styled over flesh-tone turtlenecks that looked as if they'd been inked in henna, the sexy pencil skirts fluffed up with big, girlish bows.

In the end, it was hard to pick out which pieces were highlights — at the risk of sounding too effusive, van Noten has a way of making nearly every piece feel special. We were taken by the high-waisted trousers, done first in a rich peacock blue and gold silk jacquard, and then in grey with fuschia birds' feathers; printed silk dresses with sheer overlays that hung simply from the shoulders before fanning into curtains of tulle; a grey grid-print coat embroidered with hot pink feathers; and towards the end, a series of blouses and narrow midi skirts with sinuous ruffles sweeping down the fronts. Platform sandals were the shoe style of choice, done in fabrics and sequin embroideries that harmonized with the clothes.

Feast your eyes below.

Homepage photo: Imaxtree