Burberry drew the curtains around its glass-paneled show space in Hyde Park Monday afternoon, lending a lounge-like coziness to the runway spectacle. Like many designers this and last season, Creative Director Christopher Bailey has been infected by the '70s boho spirit, manifested here in quilt-inspired patchwork, floral and paisley prints, and fringed suede coats in a palette of indigo, burgundy, teal, yellow ochre and natural brown. Sharp tailoring on coats and long dresses and expertly crafted details -- whipstitching on a patchwork suede coat, round mirror embellishments on tapestry prints -- elevated the formality and beauty of the garments. Ponchos and capes were big business for Burberry this fall and made frequent appearances on the runway, including the opening look. Several, in addition to a long fringed scarf, bucket bag and nail polishes, were available for purchase online immediately after the show.
As always, showgoers' attentions were divided between the runway and the front row, which included Kate Moss, Mario Testino, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Cara Delevingne, Jourdan Dunn, Paloma Faith and Clemence Poesy. Conspicuously missing pre-show was this season's Burberry campaign star, Naomi Campbell, who made it into her seat (looking pretty fabulous in a shaggy white jacket and pencil skirt) seven minutes in. For the finale, disco lights bounced off walls and silver tinsel rained from the ceiling as Clare Maguire hit the final notes of her four-song arrangement -- as always, it was magical.
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